War Reporting for Cowards

Grove Press

Chapter One

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The day, like most of my days in Iraq, had got off to a bad start. I awoke that morning, as usual, shivering violently and aching from another night in the Humvee. Waking up, of course, shouldn't be a difficult or traumatic process. For the first twenty-seven years of my life, I had done it every day without even thinking. Open eyes. Yawn. Scratch balls. Look up at ceiling. Climb out of bed. Waking up in a Humvee, however, on the front lines of an invasion, is different. The first thing you notice is the contortion necessary to sleep inside the vehicle: the head dangles inches from the bare metal floor; the right leg is to be found somewhere behind the left ear. The spine feels as though it has been splintered like a cocktail stick. If the war doesn't kill you, sleeping in the Humvee might. Look what happened to David Bloom, the newsman from NBC: dead at thirty-nine from "deep vein thrombosis"-aka Economy Class Syndrome-after spending one too many nights folded inside his "Bloom-mobile."

Then comes the mental replay of the night before-the hollers of "Lightning! Lightning!"; the absurd 3:00 A.M. fumble for the gas mask, Wellington boots, and rubber gloves; the casualty reports over the radio. And then you remember the almost hallucinatory dreams: corny, sepia-tinted images of parents, aunts, uncles, and grandparents. With that comes a gutful of guilt-at what you're doing to the little boy they spent years nurturing. And, of course, what you're doing to them, as they try to hold down undigested food every time they switch on the television. Oh yes, the battlefield dreams are best forgotten. Quickly.

From the outside, the gap-toothed Humvee looked as though it belonged on Sunset Strip: an oversized pleasure wagon with a camouflage paint gimmick and room in the back for a hot tub and PlayStation. Inside, however, the vehicle was jammed with radio equipment, ration packs, and a large circular footplate for the machine gunner, an earnest and aging first sergeant called Frank Hustler, who could have been a P.E. teacher in a different life. His desert boots danced to the rhythm of his paranoia somewhere next to my right hip. The gun on the roof was a .50-caliber-the kind they used in B-17 bombers during World War II. A single shot to the abdomen would rip you in half like a Christmas cracker.

In front of me sat the young Irish-American driver, "Fightin Dan" Murphy, and the half-Trinidadian captain of our unit, Rick Rogers, known to everyone but his mother as "Buck." Directly behind my head were two filthy olive drab Iraqi Republican Guard uniforms and a sloppily maintained Kalashnikov, all confiscated during a violent, terrifying house raid outside al-Nasiriyah. The Humvee's narrow seats, stuffed with cheap foam and covered with ripped, muddy canvas, were an afterthought. After two weeks, my buttocks felt badly bruised.

At one point I could have sworn they had started to bleed.

"Holy shit, look at the size of this scorpion!"

This was Murphy, a few nights earlier. He had just discovered the downside to sleeping on the desert floor: It glistened and squirmed with an encyclopedia's worth of creepy-crawlies. The Marine, who was barely old enough to buy alcohol and spoke with a profane Irish drawl, stared with incredulity at the creature that had just disturbed what passed for sleep in an Iraqi kill zone.

He jabbed at the grumpy arachnid with his rifle.

"Cap'n, did you see that? That motherfucker could have crawled into my sleeping bag. It coulda crawled up my ass!"

Buck was lying on the Humvee's hood, staring at the gleaming constellation above. The distant thuds of bombs being dropped on Republican Guard positions echoed through the infinity of mud and sand.

"Sleep on top of the vehicle, Murphy," he said, impatiently. "There ain't nothin' gonna crawl up your ass up there."

"Where's the media dude?" asked Murphy.

"In the back. First sarge is in the front. Sleep on the roof."

From the back of the Humvee, I could hear tobacco being spat, a sleeping bag being unzipped, and a short, tightly wound Marine scaling the side of the Humvee. With a clatter, Murphy pulled himself onto the Humvee's roof. Somewhere, another bomb went off and more Iraqis died, horribly.

"Some fuckin' stars," said Murphy.

"Like being on vacation," muttered Buck.

In front of me, I heard Hustler's chemical suit rustle. "Personally, I'm thinkin' of buying myself an Iraqi retirement home," he declared. "Either that, or I'm gonna open the first goddamn Starbucks in Baghdad."

There was, of course, another downside to sleeping on the ground: The risk of making an unlucky roll onto a land mine-probably intended for the Iranians, back when the Americans were on the Iraqis' side. Getting my legs blown off, I thought, would really interfere with my morning schedule. And it would ruin the goose-down sleeping bag I had bought in Beverly Hills-in the days I was supposed to be writing about celebrity parties and film premieres.

Not that my morning schedule was anything to look forward to. This particular morning, like most other mornings in Iraq, my first task was to dig a coffin-sized "foxhole" in the baked mud of the marshlands, the endless no-man's-land where the Euphrates and Tigris Rivers meet.

In theory, if you jump into a foxhole during incoming fire, your chance of survival increases by 80 percent. It was this statistic, rather than any desire for hard labor, that made me dig foxholes whenever we moved position. But for anyone who has studied the theory carefully, the foxhole, rather like the illuminated emergency exit in a Boeing 747, is hard to take seriously. For a start, unless you're in it when the mortar or missile hits, it's probably too late. And then I remembered what the instructor from the SAS-a squat Northerner with cruel eyes and a mechanical handshake-had told me back in the journalists' training camp: "Even if yer in yer foxhole," he said with a smirk and a hint of silver-capped enamel, "it'll protect you only if the shrapnel from the mortar explodes upward." He raised his eyes to the ceiling. "But some mortars are designed to explode downward." He frowned. "That's when yer foxhole becomes pointless." It also becomes pointless, of course, if the mortar that explodes in your camp contains a vial of smallpox, or a canister of poison gas.

If Frommer's ever gets around to publishing a guide to Iraq, the entry on the marshlands will be brief. They are, after all, an apocalyptically bleak part of a country that's lacking in charm to begin with. After the first Gulf War, Saddam drained the marshes and sent his henchmen on a murderous purge of the Ma'dan, or marsh Arabs, who had lived there for five thousand years. The mustachioed madman considered the peaceful Ma'dan a threat to his Ba'ath Party.

Within less than a decade, the Ma'dan were virtually wiped out, and their former home became a wasteland of dried mud banks, deserted tank trenches, and the occasional lonely, malnourished goat. The few surviving Ma'dan look like apparitions, bones jutting out of their sackcloth robes. We had thrown a few "humanitarian relief" packages to them as we first rolled into the area. The irony, of course, is that the ground the Ma'dan owned had enough oil trapped...