The Complete Guide to the Subcontinent with Expanded Coverage of Nepal

The best guide to India, packed with essentials City sights, from Agra's Taj Mahal to Mysore's palace Himalayan treks, wildlife safaris, camel trips Temples, mosques, religious festivals, ageless art Bazaars and shops with silks, rugs, hand-loomed fabrics Where to stay and eat, no matter what your budget Palace hotels, havelis, urbane modern high-rises, beach resorts, mountain lodges, safari tents, bungalows Hotel restaurants serving international cuisines; local best bets for tandooris, biryanis, koftas, kebabs, and more Fresh, thorough, practical--from writers you can trust Costs, hours, descriptions, and tips by the thousands Reviews based on visits by the most knowledgeable writers The best special-interest tours and tour operators in India 31 pages of maps--and dozens of unique features Important Contacts A to Z; Smart Travel Tips (from cutting costs to important hints for staying healthy); Fodor's Choice; What's Where in India; Pleasures & Pastimes; festivals; special-interest vacations; background essay; further reading; videos to watch

Pleasures and Pastimes

Dining
Indian dishes, which vary from region to region, are elevated to high art. Meat, seafood, vegetables, lentils, and grains proliferate in splendid combinations -- subtle and enticing. The word curry is a British corruption of the Hindi word kari, the aromatic leaf of the kari plant; typical "curries" are dishes with masala (a spicy gravy). Over the centuries, each invading force introduced new cooking techniques, new products, and new dishes that continue to appear on the restaurant table. The Moguls above all, did much to revolutionize Indian cooking, especially in the north, introducing biriyanis (rice dishes), kormas (braised meat or vegetable dishes), kebabs, kofta (meat or vegetable balls), dum pukht (aromatic dishes that are sealed and slow-cooked), and the tandoori method of food preparation. The British introduced simple puddings and custards. The Tibetans who emigrated to India brought momos (steamed dumplings), kothay (fried dumplings), and hearty noodle soups called thukpa. In the northeast, the Bengalis and Assamese took advantage of the nearby waters and created dishes with an emphasis on fish. Gujaratis, Rajasthanis, and Hindus from the south, who all tend to shun meat, developed India's vegetarian cuisine.

South Indian coffee has a caramel tang and is inexpensive. In much of India, however, expect instant coffee. Tea is excellent; it is frequently brewed Indian-style with milk and sugar. In Buddhist areas, you find butter tea; the salty flavor helps ward off dehydration, and the butter keeps your lips from cracking. India produces excellent beer, and its Riviera brand wine is reasonably good. Luxury hotels also import spirits that are available at luxury prices. Sikkim manufactures good rum, brandies, and paan liqueur. Chang (local wine), made from distilled barley or rice, is available in many mountain destinations. Goa has tasty sweet wines and feni (a potent liquor made from cashew nuts).

Many restaurants offer great meals at bargain rates in an Indian or a lingering British-Raj setting that makes you feel far from home.
Street stalls, cooking up simple specialties, can satisfy an eating urge at almost no cost. In many cities, eating out at a locally favorite restaurant can be a special culinary adventure. Don't be afraid to ask your hotel for the name of a popular restaurant that draws a crowd. At all times, however, do pay attention to food precautions.

Shopping
Every region specializes in its own products and makes them available at unbeatable prices. Villages still exist where the majority of the
residents are weavers, painters, or sculptors. Similar artisan districts remain within the old bazaars of many cities. India holds annual handicraft melas (fairs) in popular tourist destinations, where the visitor can shop and watch the artist or weaver at work. India has the world's largest rug industry. Tibetan refugees and the Sikkimese make superb carpets with Buddhist themes. Also consider India's
dhurries (cotton or wool rugs), with charming folk or tribal motifs. Particularly fine dhurries come from Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh.

India (especially Delhi, Rajasthan, and Karnataka) has wonderful silver work, including old ethnic and tribal jewelry. In many cases
the silver is not pure, so ask when you're negotiating the price. Gold jewelry is another smart purchase. In many cities (Bombay,
Calcutta, Delhi, Jaipur, and Madras) you'll find jewelers who can quickly design to order. The price per gram is determined by the world rate,
but the cost for the workmanship is a bargain. Precious and semiprecious stones, beautifully cut and highly polished, are another good
investment, with great savings. In particular, Jaipur has wonderful gems that can be bought separately or fashioned into exquisite jewelry.
Jaipur also sells intricately worked enamelware, as does Madhya Pradesh. In Hyderabad, the center of India's pearl trade, pearls
of every shape and hue are polished and sold according to quality (sheen, smoothness, and uniformity of roundness).

Wildlife Parks
India has 59 national parks and more than 250 sanctuaries, in which more than 350 different mammals and 1,200 birds live. Many of these
creatures are unique to the subcontinent: the white tiger, the royal Bengal tiger, the Asian lion, the lion-tailed macaque, the Andaman teal,
the great Indian bustard, and the monal pheasant. Before 1947 India did not protect its wildlife. By 1952, 13 species had been endangered, and
today the list has multiplied to 70 species of mammals, 16 species of reptiles, and 36 species of birds. Tigers, the symbolic mascot of India,
were killed so frequently that by 1970, only 1,500 remained. In 1972, the Indian government finally passed the Wildlife Act, which preserves
natural parks and sanctuaries and provides for the protection of wildlife, particularly endangered species. Three years later, Corbett National
Park became India's first tiger reserve, part of a large-scale enterprise, Project Tiger, co-sponsored by India's Department of Wildlife and the
World Wildlife Fund. Under Project Tiger, the government banned killing and set up 10 reserves. The total number of tigers has risen to over
1,800, but now poachers are a serious threat that may finish off this rare animal. Still, for admirers of wildlife, many of India's parks and
sanctuaries are enchanting. The Government of India Tourist Office in Delhi has good information on wildlife parks.