ISBN 10: 0898868467 / ISBN 13: 9780898868463
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Inhaltsangabe: Anderl Heckmair: My Life is a fresh translation of the newly expanded and updated classic memoir, My Life as a Mountaineer. Heckmair revisits his early childhood, recalling that he was so delicate his mother literally packed him in cotton wool for his first few years. He talks about his family's financial difficulties, culminating with his mother having to send him and his brother to an orphanage.

He relives the event that catapulted him to international acclaim-the first ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, which he climbed in 1938 with Heinrich Harrer, Wiggerl Vörg, and Fritz Kasparek. The complete story of this ascent is told here, including first-person account details. The spirit that led to success on the Eiger is evident throughout Heckmair's life: as a young man he rarely had sufficient funds, but he was able to find the time and means to get to the mountains, even if it involved stealing the occasional sausage. As a professional guide, he climbed with Leni Riefenstahl, the German filmmaker best known for the 1934 Nazi propaganda film, Triumph of the Will.

Heckmair, now in his 90s, still ponders what he's going to tackle next.

From the Inside Flap: Anderl Heckmair's account of his life and climbing accomplishments is the story of a man dedicated not just to climbing, but to adventure in the best sense of the word. Whether summiting the Matterhorn in his walking shoes (he hadn't really intended to climb the mountain that day), or guiding his millionaire client to a perfect ascent of remote Mount Waddington in British Columbia's Coast Range ("We stepped onto the summit with genuine Bavarian whoops of joy"), Heckmair is set apart as much by his ability to communicate his joyful enthusiasm for life as by his brilliance in climbing.

Heckmair's greatest mountaineering achievement, the first ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in 1938, was an undertaking so dangerous that the Swiss government had attempted to ban climbing on that face. When Heckmair and his three teammates (Wiggerl Vorg, Heinrich Harrer, and Fritz Kasparek) reached the summit safely, much was made of this as a great accomplishment for fascist Germany. This controversial characterization receives proper treatment in this new edition of Heckmair's classic autobiography, as he insists that he was an apolitical mountaineer. On hearing Hitler refer to Czechoslovakia as "a spear sticking into the side of Germany that must be broken off," Heckmair realized that not only was the Fuhrer prepared for war, he was actively courting it. "If that happened, it would be the end of freedom in the mountains. It was a profound disappointment, and the certainty of what was to befall us depressed me."

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