LAND & PEOPLE

GEOGRAPHICAL SNAPSHOT

Morocco is one of three countries — along with Algeria and Tunisia — that make up North Africa, or the Maghreb (meaning "the West" in Arabic). Approximately the size of Sweden, it is still primarily a rural country. With a population of some 33 million, Morocco has only two cities with a population of over 1 million and only three more that approach this figure.

Geographically, Morocco is both "the gateway to Africa" for Western travelers and "the gateway to Europe" for many Moroccans. Across the Strait of Gibraltar, it is only some 8 miles (13 km) from Spain; in the east, it borders Algeria; in the south, the disputed Western Sahara and, beyond, Mauritania; and to the west, the Atlantic Ocean. While Morocco has no overseas territories, it contains within its borders two Spanish exclaves, Ceuta (or Sebta, in Arabic) and Melilla.

Morocco boasts over 2,200 miles (3,540 km) of coastline bordering the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Oceans. It is also home to four mountain ranges — the rugged Rif Mountains in the north; the Middle and High Atlas, which create a natural division between the coastal regions and the Sahara; and the Saharan Anti-Atlas range. Morocco boasts North Africa's highest peak, Jebel Toubkal (13,650 feet, or 4,160 meters).

The varied landscape includes sandy desert, stony steppes, over 500,000 acres (202,343 ha.) of cedar forest and, most notably, argan forests. The squat and heavily fruited argan tree is indigenous to Morocco and grows mostly in the south. Argan oil, which is used for cooking and is extremely time-consuming to produce, is exported to several countries at a handsome profit.

CLIMATE

Due to its long coastline and its mountain ranges, Morocco has the most varied climate in all of North Africa. Summers are hot and dry while late fall and spring are rainy. Snow falls consistently in the Middle Atlas regions surrounding Azrou and Ifrane during winter, and across all of the high mountain peaks. While Marrakech may be comfortably warm in midwinter, one can see the snowcapped peaks of the High Atlas from the city. Particularly notable are the winds: chergui, a dry southeasterly wind, and gharbi (from gharb, meaning west), a cold wet westerly wind. They are responsible for both rain and drought in Morocco.

CITIES

Casablanca

Morocco's largest city is Casablanca, with a population of approximately 3.8 million. This cosmopolitan city is now the country's industrial capital, though for its size and scope it has a surprisingly brief history — most of the buildings date from the years of the French protectorate. There is a small medina (walled Islamic city, as found in most Moroccan cities), which provides evidence of its former existence as a provincial town. The most striking landmark in Casa, as it is commonly known, is the Hassan II Mosque, built in 1999 and paid for almost entirely by public donations (at a price tag of more than half a billion US dollars). Its minaret is 689 feet (210 meters) high and its workings are strikingly high-tech, including centrally heated floors and a retractable roof.

Rabat

Most foreign residents live in Casablanca and Rabat (metro area population approximately 1.4 million), Casablanca's equally modern sister and the current capital of Morocco. Rabat's modern downtown is somewhat reminiscent of Paris — if the French capital were to have palm trees and year-round sun. The city has a fine medina, dating back to the seventeenth century.

Rabat is perhaps more refined than Casablanca, and is home to some excellent restaurants, as well as several American and European fast-food chains, and to plenty of nightlife, mostly of the upscale variety. The city is also home to the majority of foreign embassies, though some consulates are located in Casablanca.

Marrakech

One of Morocco's former imperial capitals, Marrakech (pop. 970,000) is no less glorious today. Its ochre buildings (the city authorities have stipulated that all new buildings must also be this color — even McDonald's fits the mold!) and medieval sights make it a unique tourist destination, but the city is also quite modern and chic in its own right. Every fall, it is home to a film festival that attracts both Moroccan and Hollywood filmmakers and stars.

Fès

Fès (also spelled Fez; pop. 1.2 million) is the oldest of the former imperial capitals and has long been considered the center of both Islam and cultural sophistication in Morocco. Its ancient medina is unique in that it is one of the largest living medieval cities in the world. Here, one can stroll through the streets and encounter ancient customs and entirely modern workings side by side — it is not uncommon to see an old man followed by a donkey, with the donkey straining under a case of Coca-Cola. The Fez Medina Project (www.fesmedina.com) is working to restore the area, which is struggling under the burden of its million or more citizens. UNESCO has declared Fès a World Heritage Site, and is also working to preserve the ancient city.

Meknès

Only an hour west of Fès, Meknès is another former imperial capital; however, the cities are as different as night and day. While Fès teems with life and spirituality, Meknès is slower and calmer, and its inhabitants are friendly and welcoming. There are few foreign residents here, though the total population of the greater Meknès area is thought to be around 1 million. Meknès is split between its medina and imperial city and the new, French-built ville nouvelle (new town), which contains modern creature comforts such as several modern supermarkets. Meknès is situated near two of Morocco's most important historic sites — the Roman ruins of Volubilis and the holy town of Moulay Idriss. It is surrounded by vast areas of agricultural land, rich in olives (and olive oil), grains, and grapes for wine. Aicha, a large company that produces oils, jellies, and other cooking supplies, is based outside Meknès, as is the Les Celliers de Meknès winery.

Agadir

The southern city of Agadir (pop. 400,000) is best known for its beaches. Popular with foreign and Moroccan tourists alike, this destination city was entirely rebuilt following a devastating 1960 earthquake. Already popular for package tours, Agadir has become an even more sought-after destination following the introduction of inexpensive flights from Europe on low-cost airlines such as Ryanair.

Ifrane

Ifrane, by no means a large city, is only of interest to foreigners because of its prestigious English-language university, Al Akhawayn (www.aui.ma). The university, founded in 1995 by...