LAND & PEOPLE

Switzerland is one of the smallest countries in Europe, and one of the most densely populated. Its landmass is only 15,940 square miles (41,285 square kilometers), compared to Germany's 137,828 square miles (356,974 square kilometers) and France's 210,026 square miles (543,965 square kilometers). From north to south it measures 137 miles (220 kilometers), which takes about four hours to travel by train and three hours by car. From east to west it measures 217 miles (350 kilometers), and on any of these journeys one can see contrasting landscapes of great beauty.

The population of Switzerland is 8.1 million, and there are 207 people per square kilometer. Seventy-four percent of the Swiss live in urban areas and 26 percent in rural.

Made up of linguistic regions that mirror the cultures of its larger neighbors, Switzerland at first glance appears to be a peculiar and artificial entity, raising the question, "How did it all come together?" Possibly this is something that the Swiss would be asking themselves today, had they not been so busy being the responsible, active, and cooperative citizens of an extremely efficiently run country. Numerous factors have played a part in the formation of this unique republic — the people themselves, the geography, and the influence of outside powers.

Switzerland evolved naturally within its own borders and continues to forge ahead on its own terms on the European continent. This is not to say that it is immune to the political currents tugging at Europe today, but it implies both a history and a positioning in the world that is founded on a certain mistrust of its neighbors. The common ground that brings the Swiss together as a people is not always clear. Perhaps the paradox of Swiss identity is best described in the saying "unity, but not uniformity." For all its diversity, Switzerland is the most stable democracy in the world today.

CLIMATE

The climate is extremely varied. Switzerland lies at the point of intersection of the main climatic regions of Europe: the oceanic, the northern European, the Mediterranean, and the continental. Ascona, in the canton of Ticino, lies at the lowest point of the country at 643 feet (196 meters) above sea level. The climate here is much like the Mediterranean — there are even palm trees. An arctic climate is found at the country's highest point, the Dufour Peak, which is 15,199 feet (4,634 meters) high. One would have to travel only 43 miles (70 kilometers), as the crow flies, to cover the distance between these two extremes. To visitors, the country's most famous mountain, and one of the highest in the Alps, would probably be the Matterhorn. It is situated in the south, in the canton of Valais, which is a dry, mountainous region. However, if one were to travel into the valleys of this region, one would find an abundance of apricots, cherries, tomatoes, and grapes. Temperatures in Switzerland are on average about 68°F to 77°F (20°C to 25°C) in summer and 36°F to 43°F (2°C to 6°C) in winter.

The Föhn

The Föhn, also the German word for "hairdryer," is a warm, dry wind that swoops down over the leeward side of the Alps. It can arrive at any time of the year but occurs most frequently in spring and fall. Recognized by mostly clear skies with a distinct arch of clouds, it brings with it a quick rise in temperature and sudden atmospheric changes. These conditions are said to have an unsettling effect on people, causing headaches and anxiety. The perfect scapegoat, the Föhn is said to be blamed by the Swiss for all their problems.

In the French-speaking region between the Jura and the Alps a strong cold wind known as La Bise can blow from the north, northeast, or east in winter, spring, or fall. In winter the "Bise Noir" contributes to the gloom with rain, snow, or hail.

GEOGRAPHICAL SNAPSHOT

Geographically speaking, Switzerland is divided into three regions: the Jura, the Plateau, and the Alps. The Jura (Celtic for "wood") is a limestone mountain range stretching from Lake Geneva to the Rhine and extending into eastern France and southern Germany. This subalpine area makes up about 10 percent of the country's surface area. On average, it is 2,296 feet (700 meters) above sea level. It is a picturesque highland crossed by river valleys. The rocks first studied here at the end of the eighteenth century lend their name to the Jurassic geological period.

The Plateau refers to the region between Lake Geneva and Lake Constance. With an average altitude of 1,902 feet (580 meters) and covering 30 percent of the country's surface area, it is here that one finds the majority of the population (two-thirds) as well as most of the country's industry, traffic, agriculture, and livestock.

The Alps extend over the central and southern regions of the country. These are probably the physical feature most closely associated with Swiss identity by foreign travelers. They span about 125 miles (200 kilometers) at an average altitude of 5,576 feet (1,700 meters) and cover almost two-thirds of the country's total surface area. Only 11 percent of the population live in the mountains, but 60 percent of tourism is concentrated in the Alps and their foothills. The Rhone, Upper Rhine, Reuss, and Ticino Rivers divide the mountain ranges.

The country as a whole boasts no fewer than 1,500 lakes, the largest of which are Lakes Geneva, Constance, Neuchâtel, Lucerne, Maggiore, and Zürich. It is the source of 6 percent of Europe's freshwater supply.

Switzerland has practically no natural resources. It has one of the lowest percentages of land under cultivation in Western Europe, and overall the number of farms is dropping. Large farms, however, are on the increase. Six percent of the working population are employed in agriculture, and about one-third of the food is imported. Three-quarters of the farmed area is meadow and pasture, as most of the country is unsuitable for crops. Cereals and vegetables are grown in the lowlands. About one-third of farms are engaged in crop production. There are no large forests, but no region is without a forest either.

Because their own land is so small, the Swiss marvel at countries that take more than four or five hours' driving time to traverse. In some cases, they almost seem to apologize for their own. They take for granted the scale of their magnificent mountains and the diversity of the countryside — you only need travel for an hour or two to experience different cultures, languages, traditions, architecture, scenery, even countries.

LANGUAGES

Since 1937 there have been four national languages in Switzerland: German, French, Italian, and Romansh (the closest living descendant of ancient Latin). Of these, German, French, and Italian are official...