LAND & PEOPLE

Welcome to Poland, the historical bridge between East and West at the heart of Europe. Poland is a relatively large European country, with an area of 120,628 square miles (312,700 sq. km); it is slightly smaller than Germany and slightly larger than Italy. Its population of 38.3 million makes it the sixth most populous of the European Union's twenty-eight member states.

Poland is a land of contrasts. One of the newer member states of the European Union with a growing, increasingly high-tech, economy, it still has a massive agricultural sector in which farming methods have changed little over the centuries. The long Baltic coast to the north gives way to a wide central plain, and in the south are the rocky peaks of the Tatry Mountains. The large cities, such as Warsaw, Krakow, Gdansk, and Wroclaw, with their bright lights, modern facilities, and nightlife are in stark contrast to the backward villages of the countryside where life can appear to have stood still for a hundred years. The youth of Poland have embraced a modern, Western lifestyle, while much of the older generation remains very traditional. Even the climate is one of contrasts, with hot summers and cold, snowy winters. This contrast exists not only on a macro scale but also in individuals. Among the educated youth a strong sense of tradition persists, and even the most traditional Poles know how to enjoy themselves when the occasion calls for it.

Walking through the center of Warsaw today, it is hard to believe that not so long ago this was the capital of a bankrupt Communist state. Polish city centers are full of shops, boutiques, cafés, restaurants, pubs, and clubs. The cafés of Krakow and Wroclaw are every bit as charming and distinctive as those of Paris or Madrid. This is in stark contrast, however, to the rural countryside. While many of Poland's large cities have enjoyed the fruits of the recent growth of a free market economy, the countryside has not. In many small villages little has changed in the past twenty years, except for a slide into neglect and the migration of the youth to larger towns and cities.

Never feel shy about asking Poles to describe the changes that have transformed their country and society. In fact, there is often no need to ask, as many Poles are just as keen to share their views on the country as they are to hear a foreigner's.

GEOGRAPHICAL OVERVIEW

Poland is bordered to the west by Germany, to the south by the Czech and Slovak Republics, to the east by the Ukraine, Belarus, and Lithuania, and to the northeast by the tiny Russian enclave of Kaliningrad. The Baltic Sea defines the northern border.

The country is dominated by a large, central plain that encompasses the cities of Warsaw, Poznan, and Lodz. The port city of Gdansk is located on the Baltic. The entire southern part of the country is mountainous, with the highest peaks of the Tatry Mountains, 70 miles (113 km) south of Krakow, reaching an elevation of 8,200 feet (2,499 m). Two major rivers, the Vistula (Wisla) and the Oder (Odra), flow from the mountains in the south to the Baltic. The cities of Warsaw, Krakow, and Gdansk were built along the Vistula. The Oder forms a large part of the German–Polish border and has its mouth near the city of Szczecin in the northeast.

Major population centers are spread throughout the country, with Warsaw lying near the middle of the central plain, geographically isolated from any notable topographic features. Due west of Warsaw, approximately 200 miles (322 km) on the recently completed highway to Berlin, is Poznan. Gdansk on the Baltic coast lies alongside Gdynia and Sopot; collectively they are known as the tri-city. Krakow is situated some 200 miles south of Warsaw, just north of the Tatry Mountains. Wroclaw is located in the southwest of the country, north of the Sudety Mountains, which continue into the Czech Republic and eastern Germany.

Climate

Poland has a primarily continental climate, tempered by the Baltic Sea in the north. Summers are typically hot and sunny, and the time when city residents flee in droves to the countryside, lakes, seaside, or mountains. In fact, Warsaw in the middle of summer can feel like a ghost town, deserted but for the tourists wandering around. The hot weather normally lasts from late May till early September, although this varies greatly from year to year.

Fall can range from dark and gloomy to stunningly beautiful. The famous Polish golden autumn has a deserved reputation. Perhaps the best words to describe Warsaw winters are gray and damp. These are in stark contrast to the snowy peaks of the mountainous south where the food, hospitality, and mulled beer should not be missed!

A BRIEF HISTORY

"To be defeated and not submit, that is victory; to be victorious and rest on one's laurels, that is defeat."

Jozef Pilsudski (1867–1935), Polish commander-in-chief and statesman

Few countries have been more fought over than Poland. The Russians, Prussians, Tatars, Turks, Swedes, Austrians, and Germans have all fought over this land. That the Polish nation exists at all today is a testament to the resilience and character of its people.

History shapes the mind-set of any nation, but this point has a special significance in the case of Poland. The suppression of their culture, traditions, religion, and language in various periods of their history has had a strong effect on the way Poles view themselves and their relations with others. From their checkered past has come the Poles' indomitable spirit. They have lost many battles but not the war, and their vibrant culture and economy are proof of this.

Today's Poles are very conscious of their history and take great pride in their heritage and culture, which has been interwoven with the Catholic Church. Their national identity has largely been forged by the Church, which continues to be very influential in modern Polish society.

The Polish perception of their own history is far from objective, however. They prefer to focus on and take inspiration from the resilience of their ancestors and the continuity of their culture through the centuries. This has too often had the effect of turning Poland into an introverted nation, all too often detached, politically and psychologically, from the rest of Europe. European Union membership and steady economic growth are, however, having a positive impact on Poland's reengagement with the rest of the continent.

Through the prism of their history, the Poles see themselves as a strong, noble nation that has consistently been on the morally correct side of conflicts, if not always the victorious side. This has contributed to a self-image of victimhood. Rather than expecting support from beyond their borders, Poles learned to cope alone as best they could. Even today, foreigners in Poland are often told how the rest of the world has consistently abandoned...