LAND & PEOPLE

GEOGRAPHY

Uganda straddles the Equator. It lies within the Nile basin on the East African plateau, at an average of 3,609 feet (1,100 meters) above sea level, and shares borders with South Sudan to the north, Kenya to the east, the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) to the west, Rwanda to the southwest, and Tanzania to the south, with which it shares a large part of Lake Victoria. Other major lakes include Lake Kyoga in the center and Lakes Albert, George, and Edward on the Congolese border. Although not an enormous country, like Sudan or Tanzania, Uganda is still the size of the British Isles, and many of the game parks, or areas of outstanding beauty, are six to eight hours' drive from the capital, Kampala. Murchison Falls, to the north, where all the waters of the Nile cascade through a twenty-six-foot (8-meter) wide gorge, is a spectacular sight, as are the fat crocodiles that bask in the sun near the foot of the falls. These prehistoric creatures have found the most favorable of habitats, where they feast on the fish that are stunned by their journey through the rushing waters of the Falls.

Murchison Falls National Park itself has a grand wilderness feel, where one instinctively senses that nature has not yet been tamed and wildlife reigns. The elephants are bigger than in many other parts of Africa, the buffalo herds larger, and the giraffes more majestic. Kidepo Game Reserve in Karamoja, in the northeast, is even wilder, perhaps because of its remoteness. Climbing the Rwenzori Mountains can be arduous, involving a trek through steep terrain, swamps, and glaciers for six days, but those who have completed it come back with tales of incredible natural beauty. The southwestern corner of Uganda, including Kabale and Kisoro, have been described as a "little Switzerland," and deservedly so, with its crater lakes and meticulous terracing of the farmlands on the mountain slopes. The hills above Lake Bunyonyi offer a stunning view of crater lakes and islands, and the impenetrable forest near Kabale is the home of the Great Apes. Getting to within a few feet of the Silverback and watching these great creatures interact is a surreal experience.

The scenery of Uganda is varied. There are areas of long elephant grass; elsewhere endless papyrus swamps crisscross the country, while in other areas one can admire the order of the tea plantations. The road network is improving continuously, so that it's now possible to make the journey from Kampala to Fort Portal in the west in less than four hours on an excellent tarmac road, and one can drive all the way to Arua in West Nile on a newly built highway. Off the main roads, the red dirt roads stand in picturesque contrast to the green of the banana plantations, the elephant grass, the coffee bushes, and the cassava or beans, all planted in small plots known as shambas.

CLIMATE

The climate is almost ideal year-round, with temperatures in the high seventies to low eighties Fahrenheit (high twenties Centigrade). Uganda lies on the Equator on a high plateau, with most of the country being at an elevation of 3,773 feet (1,150 m), rising to 4,921 feet (1,500 m) in the west, at Fort Portal and Kabale. It therefore has the advantage of having a tropical climate without the intense humidity one finds at the coast. The central region of Uganda around Kampala has temperatures with highs of 77–82°F (25–28°C) and lows of 60–64°F (16–18°C), and when one reaches the far west at Kabale and Fort Portal, or the eastern region at Sipi Falls and Mount Elgon, the temperature has highs of 77°F (25°C) and lows of 50–54°F (10–12°C). This is one of the few places in the world where one can see snow on the Equator.

There are two rainy seasons in the year — April to May, and September to November — but with the worldwide change in weather patterns, the rains are no longer predictable. Rains in Uganda are not monsoon-type rains lasting for days. Rain usually means heavy showers, which pass fairly quickly, and then the sun comes out and dries everything up. During the rainy season it usually rains at night or in the early morning, and it is an exception to have dull, overcast days. The north and the northeast of the country, particularly the Karamajong region, tend to be drier and have less dependable rains, with some years having complete drought and consequent food shortages. The temperature and the level of rainfall affect the life cycle of the mosquito, and therefore the malaria parasite, so the prevalence of malaria varies according to the temperature and whether it is a rainy or dry season.

CITIES AND TOWNS

Kampala

The capital city of Uganda is Kampala, with an official resident population of two million people, and a population in greater Kampala of three to four million. It is said to be a city set on seven hills, but has actually grown to cover at least ten. The city itself occupies a fairly small geographical area, with congestion being the word that springs to mind when one describes downtown Kampala. Many areas are densely populated, and the roads have simply become too small for the present-day volumes of traffic and people, though efforts are now being made to create overpasses and bus lanes to ease the flow.

Kampala could also be said to be a city that never sleeps, since in certain areas the bars close when the last customer goes home, while the markets seem to do business from early morning until late evening. Kampala is the home of the national parliament, the Buganda Kingdom parliament, the national museum, and the Kabakas' tombs (the historic royal palace of the kings of Buganda, where several of the kings are now buried). The tombs were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, but, sadly, were partially destroyed by fire in 2010. Currently they are in the process of being rebuilt.

In a bid to ensure more long-term planning, the city was given priority for development, and central government put its management under the Office of the President, who appointed an executive director. The new administration has been able to make improvements in the roads, infrastructure, and general orderliness of the city, and has introduced some innovations, such as the Kampala Carnival (held in November), Christmas lights, and the planting of trees and shrubs.

Other Towns

There are several other large towns in Uganda, including Jinja in the east, at the source of the Nile, Entebbe in the southeast, where the airport is located, Gulu in the north, Mbarara in the west, Kabale in the southwest near the Rwanda border, and Fort Portal in the far west, near the Rwenzori Mountain range.

Jinja is popular for whitewater rafting on the Nile. Recently some of the rapids were submerged due to the construction of the long-awaited Bujagali Dam and hydro power plant, but other rapids farther up the river have been substituted,...