Suzanne Belperron was one of the most talented and influential jewellery designers of the 20th century. Inspired by the discovery of her personal archives in 2007, the authors of this book have created the first volume dedicated to the life and works of this renowned Parisian jeweller.
In 1919 Belperron was employed as a model maker and designer by Germaine Boivin. She contributed enormously to the success of the Maison René Boivin, but in 1932 she decided to leave the company. It was with her associate Bernard Herz, a well known precious stone and pearl dealer, that Belperron first found the freedom to reject traditional jewellery design and manufacture. Fascinated by colored stones, regardless of their value, she created highly innovative pieces, most of which were angular and set in platinum. Her jewellery was so original that she never signed her pieces, instead insisting ‘my style is my signature’.
Indeed, Belperron’s avant-garde style was adored by the ‘fashionistas’ of her time. Her work frequently appeared in Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, and her clientele included most of Europe’s royalty and aristocrats as well as bankers, fashion designers, intellectuals and American movie stars. The Duke of Windsor, the Rothschilds, Elsa Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci, Colette, Malet Stevens, Ganna Walska, and Gary Cooper are all known to have frequented Belperron’s Parisian workshop.
Belperron is often imitated today, and the lack of signature on her pieces can make identifying and dating them very difficult. The discovery of her personal archives was therefore of enormous significance, and makes this publication an essential reference book for enthusiasts of Suzanne Belperron and jewellery in general.
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Sylvie Raulet, a history graduate, graphic designer and journalist, has collaborated with magazines such as 'Beaux-Arts', 'L'Objet d' art', 'Harper s Bazaar' and 'Vogue'. She is the author of several books: 'Bijoux Art deco' (1984), 'Van Cleef & Arpels' (1986, 1997), 'Bijoux des annees 1940-1950' (1987), 'Salon indien' (1996) and 'Cristal de roche' (1999). Driven by a rare enthusiasm for jewellery, Olivier Baroin studied at the Louvre and entered the professional art world in 1987, aged just 17. In 2001 he also became a specialist in antique jewellery. Fascinated by the art and personality of Suzanne Belperron, he aquired her entire personal archives in 2007. His knowledge of Suzanne Belperron and almost daily inspection of her order books allows him to trace without ambiguity her original works, some of which have been mistakenly attributed to other jewellers, and also to rule out pieces that were until now wrongly considered to have been designed by her.Review:
One of the most exciting and surprising fine jewelry books published recently...It’s the superbly illustrated and informative first volume on Belperron’s elegant and strikingly beautiful designs, but it also reveals the brilliance of Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983).
(The Style Salonist)
The book brings her unique story to life and the images of her designs, beautifully presented, identified and cataloged, make this an absolute must for every jewelry junkie. I have to say that my copy, given to me for review, has yet to leave my nightstand as I continue to flip through the images just for a pick-me-up at the end of a long work day. (JewelHistory.com)
|The documentation paired with the quality of the jewelry makes this volume a real treat for students, gemologists, appraisers, and any jewelry professional who seeks to understand the Art Deco style that Belperron exemplified so masterfully. |
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