This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1903 Excerpt: ...place on the block, and the pieces forming the blade fitted on at the same time that they are being fitted to the block. There is little choice, however, between the two methods. The blade is to be secured to the hub by glue and screws. Sufficient margin for the joints of the mould is to be laid off on the block outside the blade, and the surplus material of the block removed. The pattern will then be prepared for the core-box. This is made four or five inches deeper than the block and pattern, and should be made to be taken apart, as in Fig. 145. The angle of the core-box is made according to the number of blades required in the screw. For a three-bladed screw the box will extend through 120 degrees; for a four-bladed screw, through 90 degrees, etc. The box should be made of two-inch material, put together with screws, and the outside or circular end so arranged as to admit of easy removal. Before beginning the mould, it is necessary to provide a skeleton of cast iron for building in the cores for the drag parts of the mould, and skeletons also for the copes; all these should be provided with suitable lifters. When beginning the mould, the block with the pattern being in the bottom of the box, the remainder of the box is rammed up with green sand, the skeleton having been properly placed in the mould during the operation. The drag being completed, the box is inverted and the block which supported the pattern removed, leaving the latter in the mould. The parting having been prepared and the gates and risers properly arranged, the operation of ramming up the cope is proceeded with. The skeleton for the cope should not only have lifters, but be provided with prickers or wires extending to within a half-inch of the pattern and joint of the mould. The purpose o...
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