Four Months Afoot in Spain - Softcover

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This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can usually download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1911 edition. Excerpt: ... chapter X shadows of the philips aday or two later I was installed for a fortnight in a casa de huespedes in the calle San Bernardo. In such places as one plans to remain for any length of time there are few cheaper arrangements for ample fare in all Europe than these Spanish "houses of guests." My room, which was temporarily on the second-floor front, but solemnly pledged to be soon changed to the third-floor back, was all that an unpampered wanderer could have required. Breakfast was light; a cup of chocolate and a roll no self-respecting traveler ventures to sample Spanish coffee more than once. But one soon grows ' accustomed and indeed to prefer the European abstemiousness at the first meal. In compensation the almuerzo and comida, at twelve and seven, were more than abundant. A thick soup, not unseldom redolent of garlic, was followed by a salad, and.that by a puchero, which is to say an entire meal on one platter,--in the center a square of boiled b'eef flanked like St. Peter's amid the hills of t Rome by seven varieties of vegetables, the garbanzos--bright yellow chickpeas of the size of marbles--with the usual disproportion granted that robust comestible in Spain, overtowering not only every other eminence but carpeting the intervening valleys. That despatched, or seriously disfigured, there came a second offering from the animal world,--a cocido or an olla podrida, after which the repast descended gradually by fruit, cheese, and cigarettes to its termination. Through it all a common wine flowed generously. grows out of the Spaniard's infernal politeness. Figure to yourself that you have just returned from a morning of tramping through sweltering Madrid on the ephemeral breakfast already noted, and sit down at table just as a...

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