ASSAGGINI & APERITIVI

GATHERING

WHETHER I AM HOSTING AN EVENT (OFTEN), or having friends and family to my home for a get-together (not as often as I would like), I know that what people want right away is a drink and a little something to nibble on. That's what the recipes here are all about. These are the nuts, olives, dips, canapés, and hors d'oeuvres that set the tone for the rest of the night. At home, these are the bites you put out before dinner, while guests are gathering, catching up, getting acquainted.

When we do events, we'll often set a long table against one wall and center a dramatic bouquet of flowers on it, which helps draw attention to the table. Wine and wineglasses go at one end and, at the other, some cheeses, a bowl of Herbed Potato Chips, Spiced Almonds, and Warm Olives. This setup not only lets guests nosh on something immediately, but it also creates a natural meeting place.

All of these assaggini ("small tastes") pack loads of flavor and texture into a single balanced bite. Some are easy to make. Others take more time and effort but, like most good things in life, are worth it.

RECIPES

SPICED ALMONDS

WARM OLIVES WITH GARLIC AND HERBS

CRISPY FRIED ARTICHOKES WITH LEMON YOGURT AND

BASIL

LEMON YOGURT

BEEF CARPACCIO ON PARMESAN CRACKERS

PARMESAN CRACKERS

HERBED POTATO CHIPS

GOUGÈRES WITH PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO

BASIL PURÉE

CHICKEN LIVER AND FOIE GRAS PÂTÉ

OLIVES ASCOLANE (SAUSAGE-STUFFED FRIED OLIVES)

MINI SCALLION AND SPINACH PANCAKES WITH

STRACCIATELLA AND TROUT ROE

BALSAMIC-GLAZED PORK RIBS

SPICY TOMATO-APRICOT JAM

MUSHROOM ARANCINI

ROASTED POTATOES WITH FONDUTA

SPICED ALMONDS

These almonds, which pack a little more heat than most people expect in a bar nut, pair well with cocktails. We make them in 20-pound batches; you may never have a need for that many nuts in your life, but know that you can easily multiply this recipe. The egg white helps the spices adhere to the nuts. You want to use just enough to make that happen but not so much that the spices clump.

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

Grapeseed or canola oil, for the baking sheet
¾ cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons kosher salt
3 tablespoons sweet paprika
1½ tablespoons cayenne pepper
1½ tablespoons whole star anise, broken into pieces
1 large egg white
1 pound (3 cups) whole almonds

Heat a convection oven to 350°F or a conventional oven to 375°F. Very lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet.

In a small bowl, combine the sugar, salt, paprika, cayenne, and star anise. In a large bowl, whisk the egg white until frothy. Add the almonds and toss well to coat. Sprinkle the spices over the almonds and toss well to coat evenly. Transfer the almonds to a colander set in a clean sink and shake gently to remove excess spices.

Spread the nuts out on the baking sheet in a single layer and bake, stirring about halfway through, until nicely toasted, about 25 minutes. Remove the almonds from the oven and let cool on the baking sheet.

Remove the pieces of star anise and discard. Use your hands to lightly separate clusters of the almonds, then return the almonds to the cleaned colander and gently shake to remove any excess spice. Serve right away, or store airtight for up to 2 days.

WARM OLIVES WITH GARLIC AND HERBS

Sure, you can put out just a plain bowl of olives, but why would you do that when you can easily boost their flavor by infusing them with garlic, rosemary, thyme, and crushed red pepper? Not only that, but a bowl of these olives contributes a wonderful aroma to the table. People always comment on it.

MAKES 3 CUPS

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, lightly smashed
1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
2 sprigs fresh thyme
3 cups mixed olives, such as Cerignola, Taggiasca, Gaeta,
and Picholine

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat the olive oil, garlic, and crushed red pepper until the garlic starts to sizzle. Add the rosemary and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in the olives, lower the heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the olives are warmed through and have absorbed the flavors, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve warm.

CRISPY FRIED ARTICHOKES WITH LEMON YOGURT AND BASIL

If you've ever been to Italy, then you know all about fried artichokes. I can't get enough of them when I am in Rome, but I sometimes find that the ones I'm served are too brown, with a flavor that's bitter from spending too much time in the oil and a texture that's not as supple as I would like. This recipe keeps intact the essence of the dish but elevates it for a better overall experience. The secret is frying the artichokes twice: first at a lower temperature and then at a higher temperature. The first fry makes the artichokes tender without overcooking the exterior. The second fry crisps and browns them to perfection. You can do the first fry (called a "blanch") several hours ahead of the second.

SERVES 6

Grapeseed or canola oil, for frying
30 baby artichokes, preferably purple
Kosher salt
12 fresh basil leaves, preferably a mix of opal and lemon
Lemon Yogurt (recipe follows)

Attach a candy/deep-fry thermometer to a deep, wide pot, and fill the pot with enough oil to come about halfway up the sides of the pot. Heat the oil to 275°F.

In batches, lower the artichokes into the oil and blanch until a metal cake tester or thin metal skewer can easily be inserted into the heart of the artichoke, 7 to 12 minutes. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the artichokes to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Reserve the oil off the heat. Peel the outer leaves off, pulling downward to peel the stem. With the stem side up, flatten each artichoke, moving it in a circular motion on the baking sheet until the leaves open up. Refrigerate the artichokes until ready to fry the second time and serve. (The artichokes may be blanched 1 day ahead of serving; refrigerate until ready to use.)

To serve, heat the reserved oil to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. In batches, gently lower the artichokes into the oil and fry until golden brown and crispy, about 1 minute. Transfer to the paper towels and season with salt. Drop the basil leaves into the hot oil for a few seconds to crisp them, and transfer to the paper towels.

Spread some of the Lemon Yogurt on each serving plate and divide the artichokes among the plates. Top with the fried basil and serve immediately.

LEMON YOGURT

Delicious with fried artichokes, this tangy yogurt would also go well with fried calamari or just about anything else deep-fried or panfried, for that matter.

MAKES ABOUT 1 ¼ CUPS

1 cup plain full-fat yogurt, preferably sheep's milk
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 clove garlic,...