Clothing and Difference: Embodied Identities in Colonial and Post-Colonial Africa (Body, Commodity, Text) - Softcover

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9780822317913: Clothing and Difference: Embodied Identities in Colonial and Post-Colonial Africa (Body, Commodity, Text)

Inhaltsangabe

This volume examines the dynamic relationship between the body, clothing, and identity in sub-Saharan Africa and raises questions that have previously been directed almost exclusively to a Western and urban context. Unusual in its treatment of the body surface as a critical frontier in the production and authentification of identity, Clothing and Difference shows how the body and its adornment have been used to construct and contest social and individual identities in Nigeria, Zimbabwe, Tanzania, Kenya, and other African societies during both colonial and post-colonial times.
Grounded in the insights of anthropology and history and influenced by developments in cultural studies, these essays investigate the relations between the personal and the public, and between ideas about the self and those about the family, gender, and national groups. They explore the bodily and material creation of the changing identities of women, spirits, youths, ancestors, and entrepreneurs through a consideration of topics such as fashion, spirit possession, commodity exchange, hygiene, and mourning.
By taking African societies as its focus, Clothing and Difference

demonstrates that factors considered integral to Western social development—heterogeneity, migration, urbanization, transnational exchange, and media representation—have existed elsewhere in different configurations and with different outcomes. With significance for a wide range of fields, including gender studies, cultural studies, art history, performance studies, political science, semiotics, economics, folklore, and fashion and textile analysis/design, this work provides alternative views of the structures underpinning Western systems of commodification, postmodernism, and cultural differentiation.

Contributors. Misty Bastian, Timothy Burke, Hildi Hendrickson, Deborah James, Adeline Masquelier, Elisha Renne, Johanna Schoss, Brad Weiss

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"An excellent book. "Clothing and Difference" will contribute to knowledge about Africa as well as to the general topic of the communication process involved in dressing the body."--Joanne B. Eicher, University of Minnesota

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Clothing and Difference

Embodied Identities in Colonial and Post-Colonial Africa

By Hildi Hendrickson

Duke University Press

Copyright © 1996 Duke University Press
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-8223-1791-3

Contents

Figures,
Acknowledgments,
Introduction,
Western Dress and the Politics of Postmodernism,
The Analysis of Dress by Social Scientists,
Dress and the Body in Eight African Societies,
Dress and the Body Surface in Africanist Scholarship,
Bodily Signs and Spiritual Representations,
I Creating Social Identities,
1 Virginity Cloths and Vaginal Coverings in Ekiti, Nigeria,
2 "I Dress in this Fashion": Transformations in Sotho Dress and Women's Lives in a Sekhukhuneland Village, South Africa,
3 Mediating Threads: Clothing and the Texture of Spirit/Medium Relations in Bori (Southern Niger),
II Challenging Authority,
4 Female "Alhajis" and Entrepreneurial Fashions: Flexible Identities in Southeastern Nigerian Clothing Practice,
5 Dressing at Death: Clothing, Time, and Memory in Buhaya, Tanzania,
III Intercultural Relations and the Creation of Value,
6 Dressed to "Shine": Work, Leisure, and Style in Malindi, Kenya,
7 "Sunlight Soap Has Changed My Life": Hygiene, Commodification, and the Body in Colonial Zimbabwe,
8 Bodies and Flags: The Representation of Herero Identity in Colonial Namibia,
References,
Notes on Contributors,
Index,


CHAPTER 1

VIRGINITY CLOTHS AND VAGINAL COVERINGS IN EKITI, NIGERIA

Elisha P. Renne

The body is the innermost part of the material self in each of us; and certain parts of the body seem more intimately ours than the rest. The clothes come next.–W. James, Principles of Psychology


Introduction

Until relatively recently, it was taken for granted in American society that a concrete physiological marker–a thin, membranous tissue known as the hymen–constituted a woman's virginity, the state of never having had sexual intercourse with a man. Further evidence of virginity was the rupture of the hymen upon first intercourse, which resulted in a sign of blood. The unequivocal presence of this bodily marker (the hymen) in all virgins has since been questioned (Kahn and Holt 1990, 152), and its absence is no longer considered legally sufficient evidence of a nonvirgin state (Townsend 1974, 3). This reassessment of what signifies virginity underscores the political nature of such readings of the body, which, grounded in a particular social and historical context, "must be regarded as a narrative of culture in anatomical disguise" (Laqueur 1990, 236). Expanding on this insight in the Nigerian context, I analyze here the particularities of one such narrative, based on interviews with 95 Ekiti Yoruba women, whose experience of the importance of a hymen-like tissue, the ibale–" a sort of biological undergarment protecting the female genitals" (Sissa 1990, 1)–has changed dramatically in the last seventy-five years. What is striking about their remarks is that they illustrate how the meaning attributed to a so-called anatomical given may shift in time. For these Ekiti Yoruba women, the shift in the perception of the ibale-hymen–from something whose presence was preserved and celebrated at marriage to something old-fashioned and traditional that should be quickly dispensed with–relates to changing ideas about what constitutes "enlightened" behavior and knowledge, which are in turn part of a shift in relations of power in Ekiti society in colonial and post-colonial Nigeria.

Ekiti views of virginity also illustrate the ways in which bodily states may be conflated with material objects–in this case, cloth and clothing–underscoring Durkheim's insights about the dialectical relation between ideas held by people which are embodied in things. Like the "leprosy of a mildewed garment" of the Old Testament, which was ritually cleansed as if it were a leper (Leviticus 14:1?9, 47?59), the white cloths used to test the presence of hymeneal blood were synonymous with the virgin herself. However, before discussing the related careers of the ibale-hymen and virginity cloths in Ekiti Yoruba social life, I would like to consider what these women meant by the term virginity, whose meaning–couched in terms of local knowledge of the body as well as influenced by social and political concerns–cannot be assumed.


Virginity in Ekiti

In the Ekiti Yoruba context, virginity is referred to generally by the term ibale, which also refers more specifically to a part of the body. One traditional healer (babalawo) described its bodily manifestation as looking like a red "plastic-film wrapping" covering the vagina (obo or oju ara), something like an "internal security system." This vaginal covering was also described by an older woman as being

something like blood, very thick and as soon as the man is able to penetrate, the thing will just break, and that shows the girl has lost her virginity. It is called ibale and at the same time ayere. It is the thing that stained the white cloth and shows that one has lost her virginity.

Another younger woman compared it to the breaking of a palm kernel:

It is usually difficult to be able to penetrate the first time. For about three hours the man will still be trying, because it will be very hard. And it is painful that day. It will just be as if someone were trying to crack a palm kernel. If the woman is still a virgin, as soon as the man is able to penetrate, blood will just stain the white cloth that has been spread on the bed. That shows that she has not known a man before.


Several other women mentioned this hardness of the ibale: "The place was hard and thick and when the man was able to penetrate, the place will soften, then blood will come out."

These descriptions are, to the best of my understanding, what physiologically constitutes the "hymen" for Yoruba Women. The Western perception of virginity as a particular bodily state defined by the presence of a particular bit of anatomy, the membranous hymen which when pierced results in bleeding, while similar in some ways to the Yoruba perception of virginity, is not the same. For example, no woman mentioned the use of manual examinations to ascertain whether the ibale-membrane was intact. Rather, for them, the membrane–the reddish, plastic-like covering that is hard and then softens after penetration–and the resulting blood were conflated. If the ibale-membrane is present, there must be blood, as explained by one older woman:

Do you know of any example when a girl insisted that she was a virgin but she didn't bleed?

There was nothing like that because it was compulsory in the past that when you lost your virginity you must see blood. If blood was not seen, it meant that one had lost one's virginity before.

As if to emphasize this point, there is no linguistic distinction made in Yoruba between the hymen, hymeneal blood, and virginity. The word ibale refers to all three–to the membranous thing (ibale) that is pierced or penetrated (ja); to the blood-like thing (ibale or ayere), thick and dark, that stains the white cloth, which confirms a woman's virginity; to the state of virginity (ibale) itself.

This triple conflation of membrane, blood, and physiological state is materially represented by a white cloth, known as...

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ISBN 10:  0822317834 ISBN 13:  9780822317838
Verlag: Duke University Press, 1996
Hardcover