SIX WEEKS IN THE SIOUX TEPEES

IN June, 1861, my husband was appointed physician for the Upper Sioux Indians, at Pajutazee, or Yellow Medicine.

The first day I arrived in the Indian country, I well remember. It was on Sunday, and as I landed from the steamboat, I could not help exclaiming, "Is it here where I am to live?" for all I saw was one log hut and about six hundred filthy, nasty, greasy Indians, and I wondered if I was really at what was called Redwood. But I soon heard that the buildings were upon the hill, some 500 or 700 feet above the river. When I arrived at the Agency I was disheartened, low-spirited and frightened, for the buildings were situated on a high prairie, and as far the eye could reach, was a vacant space. I then felt as if I had really got out of civilization: but when on the following morning, I learned that we were going 30 miles further west, I was alarmed. We at last got ready, and a train of seven wagons, with many women and children started. We had in our wagons $160,000 all in gold, and we rode in great fear, for the Indians were grumbling all along the road because of the change in the administration.

Although I was nervous, I enjoyed that ride, for a more beautiful sight than that prairie, I never have seen. It was literally covered with flowers of all descriptions; the tall grass was waving in the breeze, and it reminded me of a beautiful panorama. It seemed really too beautiful for Nature's picture. After riding a few miles we began to meet with annoyances, in the way of sloughs. After leaving the Lower Agency, we traveled ten miles, passing through Little Crow's village, and I little thought then what I should have to suffer in that vicinity. When we arrived at the Redwood River, we all exclaimed, "What a romantic spot!" Very high hills enclose the stream, while huge rocks are thrown around in the valley, giving grandeur to the scene. After crossing the river, we came in sight of a house, used by Government as a school-house for the Indian children. The house consisted of two rooms below and one above. In this Mr. Reynolds and family were already established as teachers, and here also was kept the only hotel, after passing Fort Ridgely, going west. We only rested long enough to give our horses breath after ascending the high hills, and we were objects of much curiosity to the Indians while we remained, for they all gathered around to catch a glimpse of their new "Father" that had just been sent them.

Our ride over the remaining twenty miles was very unpleasant, for the sun was very powerful, beating down upon us in our open wagons. We got along very well until we would come to a slough and stick fast in the mud, when all would have to get out, and then putting two or three extra horses to the wagon, we would be able to extricate it. It was all novelty to us and we enjoyed it, however the poor beasts suffered. After riding a few miles we could not see anything but the road that looked like civilization. It seemed like a vast lake—not a tree or a shrub to be seen. Soon, however, we came to what the driver said was an Indian mound. I do not know whether it was such or not, but it was a very high elevation of land; and there, in the distance we could see our future home, which much resembled a fort, as flags were flying from many of the buildings in honor of our arrival.

We arrived at the termination of the road about three o'clock in the afternoon, and found we must go down and around very steep hills in order to get across the Yellow Medicine River. What a splendid sight was that, as we, after winding and turning in and round great bluffs, came out into the valley of the river. Here we found quite a large Indian village. The houses were all made of bark, and the squaws were cooking outside. It was really a pretty and a novel sight. The waters were rushing and tumbling over the many rocks, and the Indians, playing their flutes, made music quite pleasant to our ears. We found that we were to cross this river, and to ascend a hill 600 feet high, made it seem as if we were going up to some great castle, for we could see the tops of the buildings in the distance, and we all remarked that we enjoyed this as much as pleasure-seekers did their visits to the old castles and scenery on the Rhine. We reached the top of the hill without further inconvenience than having to walk nearly all the way. Very glad was I when we got to our home, for I was exhausted. I found that there were only five buildings there—four large brick, and one frame—and a small brick jail, in which to confine unruly Indians. The situation of the Upper Agency was beautiful, being at the junction of the Minnesota and Yellow Medicine Rivers. On the North side of our house was the Minnesota, and on the north side the Yellow Medicine River, being not more than eighty feet apart.

The first night passed there was one of horror to all, as we were ignorant of Indian customs any further than what we had learned from those who were camped around our town, and this night they were having councils and were talking, shouting and screaming all night, and we, poor, ignorant mortals, thought they were singing our death-song, preparatory to destroying us. Towards morning the noise lulled away, and we dropped to sleep, but not to sleep long, for soon came the tramp and noise of a hundred horsemen close to the house. The men all arose, prepared their arms, waited and watched, but no attack was made. What could be the trouble? [W]hy did they not make some manifestation? [W]hy were they silent—only that terrible tramping? At last one man, braver than the rest, went down, and, behold, ——— it was our own horses, which had been turned out. They had come up on the platform to get away from the mosquitoes. This gives, in the beginning, an idea of many Indian scares. Many times we were needlessly frightened, but at last came one that was real, as our friends and our country know to their sorrow.

We found that there were employed at the Agency, for the benefit of the Indians, a blacksmith, farmer, and doctor; also, that there was a school taught by a half-breed named Renville, who had been educated in Wisconsin, and had returned to his home, his teacher following him back and marrying him. They had many pupils, all Indian children. They professed to teach them all kinds of manual labor. The scholars were fed and clothed by [the] Government, the teachers feeding their own pockets more than they did the children's mouths. The hotel was kept by the farmer, and during our stay was a good house. We soon knew we could be very happy, although so far away from civilization. After being there a few days, we learned that three miles above us there was a missionary station, conducted by Dr. Williamson, a good Christian and an excellent man. How I learned to love his family; while there they were so very kind to us all. The old man had been among these Indians 27 years, and had educated and converted many of them. Girls and boys brought up by them were equal in learning to white children of the same age. I have employed women educated by the...