The former White House pastry chef for Presidents George W. Bush and Barack Obama presents a healthy, delicious collection of dessert recipes.
Treat sugar like salt. This is the mantra of Bill Yosses, a former White House pastry chef, and his secret to baking indulgent yet wholesome desserts that truly satisfy. After being tasked by First Lady Michelle Obama to create healthier treats for her family, he discovered that when he dialed back the sugar in his recipes, his desserts were not only healthier on paper, but they actually tasted better too. In The Sweet Spot, Bill upends the notion of “healthy” desserts and shares an inspiring collection of delectable sweets that reveal the magic that happens when you bake with less sugar. By using it as a flavor enhancer, you can showcase the natural sweetness and unique flavors of your other ingredients, and when you incorporate better, more flavorful add-ins like nut flours, essential oils, herbs, and spices, you’ll be satisfied even if there’s a smaller portion on your plate. From Kabocha Persimmon Pie and Matcha Green Tea Roll with Blackberry Pastry Cream, to Lemon Kaffir Semifreddo and Popped Quinoa Chocolate Cookies, Bill’s treats show us that desserts don’t have to be a source of penance to be exquisite and indulgent. Complete with a professional baker’s tricks of the trade to ensure your confections are as gorgeous as they are delicious, The Sweet Spot is a must-have for anyone looking to up their dessert game. Once you start baking Bill’s way, you’ll be able to have your cake…and eat it too!
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Bill Yosses was the White House Executive Pastry Chef from 2007 to 2014, where he was closely involved with First Lady Michelle Obama’s Let’s Move! campaign. Prior to his time at the White House, Yosses was the executive pastry chef at The Dressing Room, Tavern on the Green, and Bouley Restaurant. He has given lectures on science and cooking at Harvard University and is the founder and chair of the Kitchen Garden Laboratory, which uses science to teach children about healthy cooking. He is the winner of the 2013 James Beard Who’s Who Award.
Peter Kaminsky is the author of more than two dozen books, including Elements of Taste, Pig Perfect, and 7 Fires. He has contributed food stories to The New York Times, New York magazine, Food & Wine, Travel & Leisure, and Condé Nast Traveler.
FRUIT CRISPS WITH NUT TOPPINGS
MAKES ENOUGH NUT TOPPING FOR TWELVE 5-OUNCE RAMEKINS OR TWO 9-INCH CRISPS, MAKES ENOUGH FILLING FOR SIX 5-OUNCE RAMEKINS OR ONE 9-INCH CRISP
Ingredients:
FOR THE NUT TOPPING
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted high-fat European-style butter, at room temperature
3⁄4 cup muscovado or light brown sugar
2 drops food-grade essential oil (fir balsam, bergamot, bitter orange, lavender, or rose; optional)
1 1⁄2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1⁄2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
1 cup coarsely chopped nuts
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme
FOR THE FILLING
1⁄3 cup organic cane sugar
3 tablespoons black chia seeds
1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cardamom Pinch of kosher salt
21⁄2 pounds fresh fruit, pitted and/or peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces, if applicable
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons drinking vinegar
Maple Whipped Cream (see below), for serving
Directions:
1 | Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment.
2 | Make the topping. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add the essential oil and mix to incorporate. Reduce the speed to low, add half the flour, and mix until incorporated, then add the remaining flour and mix until combined. Add the oats, nuts, and thyme and mix until just combined. Do not overmix. The mixture will resemble chunky paste. Spread in thin layers on the prepared baking sheets and bake until golden, about 15 minutes. Let cool, then break into marble-size pieces.
3 | Make the filling. In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, chia seeds, cinnamon, cardamom, and salt. In a separate medium bowl, combine the fruit, lemon zest and juice, and drinking vinegar, if using (see Topping combinations below) and toss. Add the dry mixture to the fruit mixture and toss together with your hands until the fruit is coated all over. Spoon the fruit into 6 individual ramekins or into a 9-inch oven-safe dish. Press the fruit down to make room for the topping, if necessary. Divide the crumble evenly over the fruit. Bake until the fruit bubbles, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool for 30 minutes. Serve with the Maple Whipped Cream.
MAPLE WHIPPED CREAM
Ingredients:
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons granulated maple sugar
Directions:
1 | Place the bowl and whisk attachment of a standing mixer in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
2 | Return the bowl and whisk to the mixer and pour the cream into the bowl. Whisk on medium-high speed until soft peaks form and the tines of the whisk begin to show in the cream. Add the sugar and whisk for 30 seconds more. Remove the bowl from the mixer, and using a hand whisk, finish whisking to stiff peaks. The whipped cream will keep in the refrigerator, tightly covered, overnight. Whisk before serving.
TOPPING COMBINATIONS
For the adventuresome, I have included some optional vinegar and essential oil combos. You don’t need to use them, but we don’t need symphonies or Broadway musicals either—and they sure are nice.
CHERRY PECAN
(with 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar and 2 drops food-grade rose essential oil)
PLUM ALMOND
(with 1 tablespoon cherry vinegar and 2 drops food-grade petit grain essential oil)
APPLE HAZELNUT
(with 1 tablespoon verjus and 2 drops food-grade sweet wild orange essential oil)
HUCKLEBERRY WALNUT
(with 2 drops food-grade bergamot essential oil)
PEACH CASHEW
(with 1 tablespoon tamarind vinegar and 2 drops food-grade bergamot essential oil)
FIG WALNUT
(with 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar and cinnamon)
PLUM-NECTARINE MACADAMIA NUT
(with shredded unsweetened coconut)
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