This collection of inventive vegetarian dishes won the 1990 Julia Child/IACP Award for Best Cookbook of the Year and includes recipes that use fresh fruits and vegetables, flavored vinegars and oils, edible flowers, salsas, and cheeses. Reprint. $25,000 ad/promo.
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Deborah Madison, the founding chef of the Greens Restaurant, is the author of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, The Vegetarian Table: America, and The Greens Cookbook. She writes for several magazines, including Saveur, Fine Cooking, Kitchen Garden, and Gourmet, and contributes a monthly column to Eating Well. She lives with her husband in Santa Fe, New Mexico.
ollection of more than 300 elegant recipes, The Savory Way presents Deborah Madison's innovative style of vegetarian cooking. The recipes are flexible and forgiving and fit into her philosophy of cooking. Some are quick fixes, designed to quell an urgent appetite; others are more leisurely affairs. Some are low-fat; others, more decadent. All allow for substitutions. Using fresh fuits and vegetables, spices, flavored vinegars and oils, edible flowers, salsas and cheeses, she creates a vegetarian palate that is sophisticated and healthful. From soups to salads, sandwiches to crepes, breads to sweetmeats, The Savory Way reflects Deborah Madison's personal brand of contemporary vegetarianism.
The word savory isn't one we use very often, but to me it suggests the place where flavor and fragrance meet, in foods with deep, full tastes that are exciting to the palate. The savory way takes into account the nature of the food itself, its promise as well as its limitations. It considers how best to bring to the table dishes that are alive and sparkling with colors, shapes and fragrance. This food has character and even elegance; but at heart it's simple home cooking, nourishing food set forth in a climate of happy anticipation.
I look for dishes that are uncomplicated and quickly made, even if they take a bit longer to develop flavor while they roast or bake or simmer on the stove unattended. The tastes are clearly discernible, either distinct elements in simple sautÚs or as more complex combinations that slowly yield their flavors to the whole dish and fill the kitchen with their good aromas as they cook. There are also a number of recipes that are more involving, for those occasions when we want to take some extra time to cook something special.
The recipes are designed to be flexible. Many can be used as a one-dish meal or fit easily into a larger menu. Some will immediately quell an urgent appetite; others require leisurely cooking to prepare pantry items that will brighten ordinary foods. Some dishes are made with very little or even no fat at all while others make use of more traditional amounts of butter and cream for those luxurious foods we like to eat on special occasions. In the absence of the perfect ingredient, there are suggestions that acknowledge the usefulness of frozen or canned alternatives. It's my hope that each of us, in our own way, will continue to find in real cooking the pleasure, relaxation and vitality that are so important to our happiness and health.
Celery-Apple Salad with Currants and Walnuts
This is a sophisticated cousin to the familiar Waldorf salad, but the creamy dressing is replaced with a walnut oil vinaigrette. Crisp and refreshing in taste and appearance, celery salad travels well and is put together easily. The pale green celery and golden apples are very pretty dotted with currants, and the salad contains nothing you can't buy in a supermarket. However, if you have garden thinnings of rocket (arugula), mustard greens, cress, or nasturtium leaves, you can strew them over the top and then toss them in just before serving. d
Use a dark-colored walnut oil with the rich flavor of nuts or try using a hazelnut oil and hazelnuts in place of the walnuts. If neither of these oils is available, use a sunflower seed or light olive oil mixed with a little dark sesame oil.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
1/2 cup dried currants
1 large head of celery
2 Golden Delicious apples
5 or 6 pale green celery leaves
4 parsley branches
10 walnuts, cracked and left in large pieces
1 to 2 tablespoons walnut oil
lemon juice or Champagne vinegar
salt
freshly ground pepper
If the currants are hard, cover them with warm water and set them aside to soften while you cut the celery and apples. When they're soft, after 10 minutes or so, drain them and squeeze out the water.
Separate the stalks of celery and peel the tougher outer stalks. Slice the celery into thin pieces, straight across or at an angle. Cut the apples into quarters or sixths if they're large and thinly slice them crosswise. Finely chop the celery leaves and the parsley and crack the nuts.
Combine the celery, apples, currants, celery leaves, parsley, and walnuts in a bowl. Toss them with just enough walnut oil to coat everything lightly. Add the lemon juice or vinegar to taste, salt lightly, season with pepper, and toss again.
Sorrel-Lentil Soup
It's difficult to imagine how a recipe as simple as this one can also be so good. This recipe is derived from one of Elizabeth David's, which calls for only lentils, sorrel, and cream. I have never been able to resist adding some red onion and bay leaf, and sometimes a mirepoix of celery and carrots. But even with these additions this is the simplest of soups. There is no browning of onions or sautÚing of vegetables; just a few ingredients boiled together and blended. Although leguminous soups usually improve after a few days, I find this one is best when served right away.
This plain-looking soup--neither lentils nor sorrel boasts stunning color--is light, nourishing, and surprisingly delicious. It is one of my favorites.
Makes 1 quart
1/2 cup lentils
1/2 small red onion, finely diced
1 bay leaf
salt
1 1/2 quarts water
3 handfuls sorrel leaves, shredded
1 to 2 tablespoons cream or creme fra¯che
freshly ground pepper
Rinse the lentils and combine them in a soup pot with the onion, bay leaf, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and water. Bring to a boil; then simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes or until the lentils are completely soft.
PurÚe half the cooked lentils in a blender until smooth; then return them to the pot. Add the sorrel and cook for another 10 minutes; the sorrel will turn olive green. Stir in the cream, taste for salt and serve with freshly ground pepper.
Penne with Roasted Peppers, Saffron, and Basil Cream
This colorful pasta is filled with the smoky, rich flavors of grilled peppers and saffron. Penne, or any other hollow or twisted pasta shape, is right for this sauce. If you have roasted peppers on hand, this pasta can be assembled in just a few moments.
Makes 4 servings
1 large red bell pepper
1 large yellow bell pepper
1/8 teaspoon saffron threads
1/2 cup hot water
2 large tomatoes
1 tablespoon virgin olive oil
1 medium-sized red onion, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, pounded to a paste or finely chopped
a handful of basil leaves, finely sliced
1 cup half-and-half
salt
3/4 pound penne or other dried pasta
freshly ground pepper
freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese
Roast the peppers according to the directions on page 329. Cut them into small squares and set aside.
Cover the saffron threads with the hot water. Bring a small pan of water to a boil, submerge the tomatoes for 15 seconds, and remove them. Take off the skins, slice the tomatoes in half, gently squeeze out the juices, and cut the flesh into small squares.
Warm the oil in a wide skillet and add the onion. Cook over medium-high heat until the onion is just starting to color; then add the garlic, a few tablespoons water, and half the basil. Continue cooking until the onions have softened; then add the peppers, tomatoes, saffron threads and the liquid, and half-and-half; simmer until the sauce has thickened as much as you like.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add salt to taste and the pasta, and cook until it is al dente. Drain and add it to the sauce. Gently toss to combine and season with plenty of pepper. Serve garnished with the remaining basil and a light dusting of cheese.
Carrots, Roman Style
Although this dish derives from chronicles of Ancient Rome, it is rather contemporary in feeling. Its method is straightforward, the herbal flavorings are clear yet surprising, and the vinegar both sharpens the flavor and leaves the carrots with a firm texture. I have omitted the fermented fish paste that was so frequently used by the Ancient Romans, but one could include an anchovy, finely chopped or pounded and...
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