USA Cookbook - Hardcover

Until I spent a weekend in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, I had always thought of apple butter as one of those elusive foods that was sold in jars or served on relish trays at quaint country inns. But visiting with Mennonite and Amish families, I was treated to the most delicious, perfectly spiced apple butter imaginable. I knew the time had come for me to have a lesson in this all-American spread. To begin with, I learned that any old apple won't do. For the perfect consistency, it has to be a mealy-textured cooking apple, such as Gravenstein, McIntosh, or Rome Beauty. Cooked with cider, then baked with a touch of cinnamon and a splash of vinegar, this apple butter is thick, dark, and deeply aromatic. Although this recipe may be more work than a trip to the supermarket, it is eminently worthwhile, and the apple butter will keep for up to 3 weeks--if you don't eat it all with the first taste!

6 pounds mealy apples (Gravenstein, McIntosh, Rome Beauty)

1 cup apple cider

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1/4 cup cider vinegar

2 cups (packed) dark brown sugar

1. Peel and core the apples, then quarter them. Place the apples in a heavy ovenproof pot, add the cider, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook until the apples are soft, about 30 minutes.

2. Preheat the oven to 350 F.

3. Press the apples, along with any liquid, through a strainer into a bowl. Return the mixture to the pot and add the cinnamon, vinegar, and brown sugar. Bake, uncovered, for 3 hours, stirring occasionally. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate, covered, for up to 3 weeks.

Makes about 5 cups

DEVILED LAMB CHOPS

Wait till you taste these little devils. They're just nicely spiced, not searingly so, but they do pack a surprise because most folks, I've found, don't expect to have their lamb served with a little heat. Pile the chops on one half of a large platter with grilled corn piled on the other. If you're not in the mood for wine or beer, an icy pitcher of iced tea is the drink of choice.

Wine: Sonoma County (CA) Cabernet Sauvignon

Beer: Pennsylvania double bock

Marinade

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon finely minced garlic

1 1/2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce

1/2 teaspoon paprika

Salt, to taste

8 rib lamb chops, cut 1 inch thick, bones frenched

1. Prepare the marinade: Combine all the marinade ingredients in a large bowl.

2. Add the lamb chops and coat them well with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours, turning them occasionally.

3. Prepare a barbecue grill with medium-hot coals or preheat a broiler.

4. Grill or broil the lamb chops, 3 inches from the heat source, brushing them with the marinade, for 4 to 5 minutes per side for medium-rare meat.

Serves 3 to 4

FENNEL AND ACORN SQUASH WHIP

Fennel and acorn squash have surprising affinity for each other. Although sugary winter squash is delicious on its own, the sweet licorice flavor of the fennel brightens the taste and makes for a more interesting side dish.

1 acorn squash (about 1 pound)

1 fennel bulb (about 1 1/2 pounds), ferns trimmed off, chopped into 1-to 2-inch pieces

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

1/2 cup fresh orange juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives, chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, or slivered fresh basil leaves, for garnish

1. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil.

2. Cut the acorn squash in half lengthwise. Remove the seeds and then cut the squash into large chunks. Cook the squash in the boiling water until tender, 10 minutes. Drain. When the squash is cool enough to handle, remove the skin with a paring knife. Cut it into 1/2-inch cubes and set aside.

3. Meanwhile, bring another pot of water to a boil. Add the fennel and cook until tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.

4. Melt the butter with the orange juice in a large skillet over medium-low heat, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the vegetables and cook, stirring, for 10 minutes.

5. Transfer the vegetables to a food processor and puree until smooth. Serve warm, garnished with the chives.

Serves 4

Excerpted from U.S.A. Cookbook. Copyright c 1997 Sheila Lukins

Reprinted with permission by Workman Publishing.