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Adding her imaginative twist to dishes from cuisines around the world, Nicole Routhier uses apples, peaches, bananas, blueberries, carambolas, grapes, mangos, papayas-all kinds of fruit, sweet or tart-to bring an unexpected depth of flavor, a lighter, fresher, taste, and a sensuous appeal to over 400 recipes. Includes: Cream of Fennel and Pear Soup. Wild Mushroom Risotto with Apples. Fruity Bruschetta. Lemon-Lime Spaghetti. Figgy Quail. Mashed Potatoes with Roasted Pears. Braised Cranberry Pork Chops. Tuscan Grape Bread. Heavenly Raspberry Brownies. Chilled Cherimoya Custar.
"A brilliant book on cooking with the most interesting, intense, and healthful flavors available from nature: fruit."
--Mark Miller, chef/author of Coyote Caf, and The Great Salsa Cookbook
"A wealth of luscious recipes that reveal the wonderful role fruit can play in cooking of every kind."
--John Willoughby and Chris Schlesinger, co-authors of The Thrill of the Grill and Big Flavors of the Hot Sun
YIELD: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
You may think of vichyssoise as the ultimate French soup, but it was actually created in America. Louis Diat, the chef at the original New York Ritz Hotel, thought it would perk up flagging appetites during the hot summer months of 1912. Chef Diat's vichyssoise was basically a pureed potato and leek soup served cold. Over time, chefs around the world have come up with many variations on this soup. This one originated on the island of Grenada, where breadfruit is more common than potatoes; the pears are my contribution. Refrigerate the leftover breadfruit and use it up within a week for other dishes, such as Breadfruit in Vinaigrette (see Index). If breadfruit is unavailable, simply substitute potatoes.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup finely chopped, well washed, and dried leek (white part only)
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
2 cups peeled, cored, and sliced (1/4 inch thick) breadfruit, kept in salted water
3 cups (or more) chicken broth, preferably homemade (page 30)
2 ripe pears, such as Bartlett or Anjou, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped
1 cup heavy (or whipping) cream
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives
1. Melt the butter in a large soup pot over medium-low heat. Add the leek and onion and saute, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes.
2. Drain the breadfruit and add it to the pot. Stir to coat with butter.
3. Add the chicken broth, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the breadfruit is very tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the pears and remove from the heat.
4. Puree the soup in small batches until smooth in a blender or food processor. Transfer the pureed soup to a large bowl and stir in the cream. If it is too thick, add a bit of chicken broth. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
5. Ladle the soup into chilled bowls and garnish with snipped fresh chives. Serve immediately.
PORK KABOBS WITH GRILLED PEACHES
YIELD: 4 ENTREE SERVINGS
The sweetness in this dish comes from the American South in the form of peaches and brown sugar, and the peach-flavored vinegar in which the pork is marinated adds a jolt of tartness. To round out the meal, serve a simple watercress and tomato salad dressed with just a light splash of balsamic vinegar and olive oil.
1/3 cup peach vinegar, preferably homemade (page 287), or 1/4 cup cider vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably Kikkoman
3 tablespoons (firmly packed) light brown sugar
3 tablespoons mild olive oil
2 teaspoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger
1 1/2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes
2 large peaches, peeled, halved, and pitted
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
4 thin slices pancetta (about 1/4 pound)
1 large onion, cut into 8 wedges, layers separated
1. Stir together the vinegar, soy sauce, 2 tablespoons of the brown sugar, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and the ginger in a medium bowl. Add the pork and toss to combine. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or overnight.
2. Place 8 bamboo skewers in a shallow pan and cover with hot water. Soak for at least 30 minutes.
3. Place the peaches in a pie pan and sprinkle with the lime juice and remaining 1 tablespoon brown sugar. Wrap a slice of pancetta around each peach half and set aside.
4. Drain the pork cubes and thread them, alternating with onion pieces, onto the skewers. Lightly brush the kabobs with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.
5. Prepare coals for grilling or preheat the broiler.
6. Grill or broil the kabobs 4 inches from the heat until the pork is no longer pink in the center, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Grill or broil the peaches until the pancetta is crisp and the peaches are just warmed through, about 2 minutes. Serve a once.
VARIATION
POMEGRANATE LAMB KABOBS: Replace the vinegar and brown sugar in the marinade with 2 tablespoons Pomegranate Molasses (page 138) diluted in 1/4 cup water. Substitute the lamb for pork, and proceed as for the above recipe. Dilute an additional 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses with 1 tablespoon water, and brush the mixture over the grilled kabobs before serving.
SKILLET APPLE FRITTATA
YIELD: 4 SERVINGS
A frittata is an Italian omelet, traditionally made with ham and cheese and baked. My version of the frittata is flavored with apple, and it doesn't require any baking. Practically everything is combined in the skillet and cooked over the stove. And the leftovers (if you are lucky enough to have any) make great sandwiches!
8 large eggs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup diced peeled apple (1/4-inch cubes), preferably Granny Smith
1/2 cup diced onion (1/4-inch cubes)
1/2 cup diced green bell pepper (1/4-inch cubes)
1/2 cup diced cooked ham (1/4-inch cubes)
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 cup diced mozzarella cheese (1/2-inch cubes)
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1. Beat the eggs with 2 tablespoons water and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
2. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Quickly add the butter and swirl it around to coat the bottom and sides of the pan. Add the apple, onion, bell pepper, ham, and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are just tender, about 2 minutes. Season the mixture to taste with salt and pepper.
3. Pour the beaten eggs over the vegetables. Scatter the mozzarella over the eggs, and sprinkle with the Parmesan.
4. Cover the pan and cook over very low heat until the eggs are set and the cheese has melted, about 12 minutes. (If desired, pop the frittata under a preheated broiler until the top is golden brown, about 2 minutes.) Cut the frittata into wedges and serve at once.
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