ALABAMA

One of the best parts about taking this journey and writing this book was rediscovering places that I may have taken for granted. When I think of Alabama, I think of the true Southern slow pace of life. Then I remember that Huntsville was the birthplace of America's space program, that Birmingham owes its almost overnight population growth to the steel industry, and that Mobile was the birthplace of Mardi Gras. Alabama is more than Southern folks allowing time to pass by while sitting in rockers on a country porch. It's made up of people who are inventive, industrious, and know how to have a good time.

As I traveled the state, I was fortunate to run into several souls who fit those descriptions. Being true down-to-earth Southerners, they take great pride in their Southern hospitality, and it shows.

Rebellious by nature, Alabama was the center of the Confederacy during the Civil War, hosting the First White House of the Confederacy. Today, you may think that the war rages on with so many re-enactments taking place across the state. From more recent history, however, Birmingham and Montgomery have several monuments dedicated to the civil rights movement. Alabama is not at war with its past but makes an effort to remind visitors and locals alike of its rich history.

From the airfields of Tuskegee to the oval tracks of Talladega, Alabama has a story to tell around every bend and curve. Its landscape is rich with mountains, piedmont, waterways, and the northwestern shoals. If you've lost a bag on an airline, just stop by Scottsboro, home of the Unclaimed Baggage Center. Who knows? You just may get lucky and find that bag full of clothes that you've lusted after all these years that we both know won't fit you anymore. Or you can just stick to the basics and follow my route to meet some great characters and eat some delicious Southern vittles.

Beans & Greens

Gadsden, Alabama

Some of the best places I've ever eaten are off the beaten path, and Beans & Greens in Gadsden is no different. You don't wander into this place by chance. If you've found this little country restaurant, it's because you're either a local or were nice enough to the locals to have them guide you here. Beans & Greens is an all-wood building with a pine interior, made especially for country folk.

Bobby Boles, the current owner, started his career in the place as a dishwasher. When the previous owner fell upon bad health, he handed the restaurant over to Bobby, and with his wife, Kelly, he's been running it for more than a decade. The restaurant is buffet style but sometimes offers special menus. The regulars tend to prefer the fourteen to eighteen items on the buffet with the salad bar that includes coleslaw and potato salad.

The restaurant is often busy, but customers usually don't have to wait long for a table since there is a fairly quick turn-around time with the buffet service. The staff is very friendly, and Bobby isn't afraid to get in the mix when the place fills up. There is usually a selection of five or six meats with choices such as chicken fingers, roast beef, meatloaf, and chicken and dressing. Then come the veggies — corn, baked beans, green beans, sweet potato casserole, and macaroni and cheese.

There was no special menu the day I was guided to Beans & Greens, so I went for the buffet. Everything looked amazing, so I sampled nearly everything on the line. I was careful, though, to save room for dessert. My sources had told me that the made-from-scratch sweet treats were not to be missed.

I felt pretty full already, so I went for a slightly lighter dessert option: the strawberry shortcake. In the South, when strawberries are in season, this delicious, light and f luffy confection makes an appearance at most outdoor parties. To celebrate the summer fruit harvest, places such as Castleberry (northeast of Montgomery) and Loxely in Baldwin County host strawberry festivals. And after a couple of bites of the strawberry shortcake at Beans & Greens, I can see what all the hoopla is about.

The shortcake is sweet, moist, light, and airy. The fresh ripe strawberries are bathed in the perfect simple syrup to complement the cake, and a dollop of whipped cream tops the whole thing off. It was the ideal ending to my meal, and I decided right then and there to perfect that recipe myself. So feel free to recreate this delicious treat at home, and don't hesitate to ask the locals in Gadsden for directions to Beans & Greens to try the original.

Strawberry Shortcake

1 (16-ounce) box yellow cake mix
4 large eggs
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1 cup sugar, divided
3 pints strawberries, sliced
3 cups heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease two 9-inch baking pans.

In a large bowl combine the cake mix, eggs, and oil, along with the amount of water called for on the box. Beat until well incorporated. Divide the batter between the two pans. Bake for 30 minutes, or until a wooden pick inserted near the center comes out clean. Let the cakes cool for 15 minutes on a wire rack before removing them from the pans. Let cool completely on a wire rack before assembling.

Sprinkle ½ cup of the sugar over the strawberries. Set aside at room temperature until the berries release their juices, about 30 minutes.

Combine the heavy cream and the remaining ½ cup sugar in a medium bowl, and whip by hand or with a hand mixer until stiff peaks form. Place one of the cake layers on a serving platter. Add half the strawberries and half the whipped cream. Top with the second cake layer and the remaining whipped cream. Place the remaining strawberries on the top.

Serves 8.

Charles' Cafeteria & Grill

Fayette, Alabama

In 1985 Charles Langley opened Charles' Cafeteria & Grill to serve the community of Fayette and the surrounding areas. He saw a need for a local restaurant that offered fresh local meats, produce, and homemade desserts, without breaking the bank for the local folk. After a while, Charles retired, leaving his daughter, Belinda, and her husband, Mike Watts, to run the business. I always love to hear about how businesses got started and, even better, how they have stayed in the family.

Whatever values Charles instilled in Belinda and Mike are still going strong today. The place is very busy, but the staff is extremely accommodating to guests and very friendly. There was a certain hum of energy when I walked in the door, with all the staff rushing around to greet hungry customers, not in a "get out of my way" kind of vibe, but in a nice and energetic way. This place has a great breakfast

menu with made-from-scratch biscuits daily. There's a daily lunch buffet with meats and a choice of several different fresh and seasonal veggies. The thing that really piqued my interest, though, was the desserts. I have a lot of respect for restaurants that make...