Rise and dine! If there’s one meal of the day to get passionate about—no matter where you’re from in this great land—it’s breakfast with all the fixings.
Featuring down-home diners, iconic establishments, and the newest local hot spots, America’s Best Breakfasts is a celebration of two of this nation’s honored traditions: hitting the open road and enjoying an endless variety of breakfasts. Even without a road trip, you can re-create favorites that will satisfy any time of day, including:
- Shrimp and Grits, Hominy Grill, Charleston
- Croque Monsieur Sandwiches, Tartine, San Francisco
- Kimchi Pancakes, Sunshine Tavern, Portland
- Filipino Steak with Garlic Fried Rice, Uncle Mike’s, Chicago
- Cannoli French Toast, Café Lift, Philadelphia
- Brioche Cinnamon Buns, Honey Bee, Oxford
- Morning Glory Muffins, Panther Coffee, Miami
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LEE BRIAN SCHRAGER is the founder and director of the Food Network & Cooking Channel South Beach and New York City Wine & Food Festivals. He is also the vice president of corporate communications and national events at Southern Wine & Spirits of America and the author of Fried and True and The Food Network South Beach Wine & Food Festival Cookbook. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Lee has appeared on Today and Rachael Ray, and serves on the board of directors for the Food Bank of New York City. He lives in Miami and New York City.
ADEENA SUSSMAN is a cookbook writer and recipe authority. In addition to this book she also collaborated with Lee Schrager on Fried and True, and is the coauthor of many other cookbooks. Her work has also been published in Food & Wine, The Wall Street Journal, Martha Stewart Living, Every Day with Rachael Ray, and on Epicurious and Food Republic.
Rise and dine! If there’s one meal of the day to get passionate about―no matter where you’re from in this great land―it’s breakfast with all the fixings. Featuring down-home diners, iconic establishments, and the newest local hot spots, America’s Best Breakfasts is a celebration of two of this nation’s honored traditions: hitting the open road and enjoying an endless variety of breakfasts. Even without a road trip, you can re-create favorites that will satisfy any time of day:
Shrimp and Grits, Hominy Grill, Charleston
Croque Monsieur Sandwiches, Tartine, San Francisco
Kimchi Pancakes, Sunshine Tavern, Portland
Filipino Steak with Garlic Fried Rice, Uncle Mike’s, Chicago
Cannoli French Toast, Café Lift, Philadelphia
Brioche Cinnamon Buns, Honey Bee, Oxford
Morning Glory Muffins, Panther Coffee, Miami
Chapter One
TheWest Coast and Pacific Northwest
Best of the West
Touching down on the West Coast, we knew to expect one thing: the freshest ingredients, put to use in ways that would surprise, satisfy, and inspire. Our expectations were met—and exceeded—every stop along the way, beginning in Los Angeles, where a cool—but never cooler-than-thou—vibe ruled. From the hippie-chic offerings at Café Gratitude in Venice, where the blissed-out clientele served as the restaurant’s most ringing endorsement, to the creamy avocado toast at Plow, we couldn’t help but feel more relaxed after just a couple of sun-filled mornings.
Chef friends like Suzanne Goin, an expert practitioner of LA goodness, treated us to dish after dish that reminded us just how fresh and fulfilling breakfast can be. Up north, San Francisco lived up to its reputation as a dining destination equally influenced by its passion for hyper-locavorism and its exceedingly international citizenry. Produce sorcerer Amaryll Schwertner’s colorful, thoughtful creations set the tone for a trip filled with great meals that included a visit to Vietnamese chef Charles Phan’s home, where he taught us how to make authentic breakfast porridge that blew us away (see page 38). And Portland welcomed us with open arms, with breakfasts that were as comforting as they were thought-provoking. A chocolate doughnut whose main ingredient is mashed potatoes (see page 49)? A pancake packed with fiery kimchi (see page 54)? A broiled grapefruit gilded with emerald-green, basil-infused sugar (see page 53)? Yes, yes, and yes again.
Café Gratitude, Venice, CA
Golden Turmeric Iced LatteServes 1
Imagine a restaurant that’s both completely otherworldly and entirely LA, and you’ve nailed the vibe at Café Gratitude in Venice Beach. Everyone seems a little more Zen here, from the servers and patrons to the dogs leashed on the curb. But really, what else would you expect from an establishment whose co-owner, Ryland Engelhart, calls himself the Chief Inspiration Officer? Even the plates encourage positivity, emblazoned with questions like, “What are you grateful for?” Los Angeles is also the locus of juicing culture; if you’ve never had an iced latte made with fresh turmeric juice, you may be surprised by how much you love it. It encapsulates a sunny SoCal beach day in a glass: the dusky, earthy flavor of the fresh turmeric, sweetened with honey and enriched with almond milk, is a revelation.
1 cup unsweetened, very lightly sweetened, or vanilla almond milk
1 tablespoon honey or agave
2 tablespoons fresh turmeric juice, juiced from 4 ounces fresh turmeric root
Steam the almond milk, or heat it gently in a small saucepan. Whisk in the honey to dissolve, and let the mixture cool slightly. Fill a tall glass with ice, add the turmeric juice, and top with the almond milk.
Cook’s Note
Fresh turmeric is increasingly available at health food stores and upscale supermarkets. If you don’t have a juicer, peel the turmeric and process in the small bowl of a food processor or a spice grinder. Place the pulp in a double layer of cheesecloth and squeeze the fresh juice into a bowl; discard the solids. Fresh turmeric juice can be replaced with ¾ teaspoon turmeric powder dissolved in 2 tablespoons water.
Connie and Ted’s, west hollywood, CA
Lobster Scrambled EggsServes 4
Few things are as delicious as soft-scrambled eggs, but this New England–style seafood house—incongruously set in West Hollywood—ups the ante by topping the eggs with lobster and enriching them with melted butter. The chefs cook the lobsters in-house, adding the cooked tomalley—the tasty green stuff you find in the lobster cavity—for extra luxury and flavor. In this recipe, we forgo the home-steamed crustacean, but if you have a good fishmonger, ask him to save you some tomalley for this dish.
¾ pound good-quality picked lobster meat
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
12 large eggs
½ teaspoon sea salt
¼ cup crème fraîche
Lobster tomalley from 2 lobsters (optional; see headnote)
1 large lemon, for zesting
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives, plus more for garnish
Pinch of espelette pepper or paprika (optional), for garnish
Buttered toast or grilled bread, for serving
In a small saucepan, gently warm the lobster meat and butter over the lowest heat (lobster will overcook if the flame is too high), 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and keep warm. In a mixing bowl, whisk the eggs and season with the salt.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the warmed butter from the lobster in a slope-sided nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add the eggs, and gently cook, whisking constantly, until they slowly start congealing into what looks like small, uniform cottage cheese curds, 15 minutes. Whisk in the crème fraîche and, if using, the lobster tomalley; the texture of the eggs will become a bit looser. Cook until the eggs tighten up slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a Microplane, grate the lemon zest directly into the eggs, then stir in the chives, reserving some of the zest and chives for garnish. Remove the skillet from the heat.
Remove the lobster from the butter and divide it among 4 serving bowls, saving the prettiest and most vibrantly colored pieces of meat for the top. Spoon the eggs over the lobster, garnish with the reserved lobster pieces, the rest of the chives, a pinch of espelette, and the rest of the lemon zest. Serve with toast.
Pizzeria Mozza, Los Angeles, CA
Breakfast PizzaServes 3
Securing a seat at the counter at Nancy Silverton’s pizza palace is a challenge, and for good reason. Pies, made to order, come out of the smoldering oven supported by the most masterful crust we’ve seen: pliant, puffy, crisp-edged, and slightly doughy—everything you could want and more. The revelation of breakfast pizza, which Silverton unearthed from her recipe archive for us, was the panna—salted whipped cream used to prime the dough’s surface before topping it with a flurry of cheeses, meats, and potatoes. The instructions may seem exacting, but following them to a T will make you the most experienced pizzaiolo for miles around. Of course, store-bought pizza dough is an option if you’re pressed for time or looking for a shortcut when entertaining.
½ cup heavy cream
¹⁄8 teaspoon kosher salt
Semolina or cornmeal, for dusting the pizza peel (optional)
Pizza Dough (recipe follows)
All-purpose flour, for dusting the work surface
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
6 ounces low-moisture mozzarella, cut into ½-inch cubes (1½ cups)
9 ounces Sottocenere al tartufo or other truffle cheese, shredded
3 ounces Fontina, cut into ½-inch cubes (¾ cup)
12 scallions, white and green parts included, thinly sliced on an extreme bias
3 small Yukon Gold potatoes, steamed, cooled, peeled, and cut into ¼-inch-thick rounds
6 thick slices applewood-smoked bacon
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
3 large eggs
Maldon or other flaky sea salt, such as fleur de sel
Whip the cream and salt in a stand mixer, or with a hand mixer, on medium speed until it reaches soft peaks just stiff enough to spread. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Remove the racks from the oven and place a pizza stone or a heavy duty baking sheet, underside facing up, on the oven floor. Preheat the oven and stone to 500°F for at least 1 hour. Dust a pizza peel with semolina or cover...
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