"Shellenberger has perfected the art of gunkholing . . . An excellent book for both those who enjoy weekend cruises and those who merely want to know more about Chesapeake Bay." -- Daily Press (Newport News, VA)
"With more than 3,000 miles of shoreline, theChesapeake Bay offers a treasury of cruising spots.Shellenberger's book provides the key to unlock it." -- Virginian-Pilot
"An 'insider's' look at the hundreds of places cruisers and weekend boaters love to hole up in. . . . It is also a loving portrait of the bay, its history, its people, its wildlife, and its environment." -- The Mariner
"A truly monumental guide." -- Sunday Capital (Annapolis, MD)
Dotting its more than 3,000-mile shoreline are creeks, coves, and inlets--or gunkholes in Chesapeake Bay parlance. They are as challenging as they are charming for cruisers to fi nd and enter, sometimes discouraging the less adventuresome. But thanks to author Bill Shellenberger, you will be able to enjoy these hidden treasures like an old pro.
For more than twenty years, Bill Shellenberger's Cruising the Chesapeake has been the guide of choice for sailors and motor cruisers seeking to avoid the beaten path. Here Bill shares with you his engaging, heartfelt evocation of the Bay, its shores, history, wildlife, and people. No other guide to the region offers such complete, detailed coverage of virtually every point of interest on the Bay--from the secluded east fork of Langford Creek to the bustling hearts of Baltimore, Washington, and Norfolk.
Find your path to Cruising the Chesapeake with
A comprehensive cruise planner and navigation guide and a vivid celebration of one of North America's natural treasures, Cruising the Chesapeake is a book no Chesapeake boater will want to be without.
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For more than 40 years, the Shellenbergers have sailed the Chesapeake Bay as a family, from the time of their short-lived first boat, a 14-foot runabout, through three others to their present 31-foot Westerly twinkeeled sloop. They have also made several excursions to the Caribbeanand Down East to Maine.
The crew is usually composed of Bill, his wife, Judy, and two Tibetan Terriers. The last two crewmembers may explain his apparent preoccupation with beaches and places to land. Their two grown daughters (and husbands), plus a granddaughter, occasionally join them on their expeditions. When they all do, four more dogs--two Scotties, a West Highland White Terrier, and a Jack Russell--also add to the four-legged crew.
Bill is a past commodore of the Arundel Yacht Club, its newsletter editor for nearly two decades, and the author of numerous cruising and how-to articles in both local andnational magazines.
| Acknowledgments | |
| Preface | |
| How to Use This Book | |
| Introduction | |
| Suggested Cruises | |
| Harbors of the Chesapeake Bay | |
| Region 1: Head of Bay to Pooles Island | |
| EASTERN SHORE | |
| WESTERN SHORE | |
| Region 2: Pooles Island to Bay Bridges | |
| EASTERN SHORE | |
| WESTERN SHORE | |
| Region 3: Bay Bridges to Little Choptank River | |
| EASTERN SHORE | |
| WESTERN SHORE | |
| Region 4: Little Choptank River to Potomac River | |
| EASTERN SHORE | |
| Region 5: Potomac River | |
| Region 6: Potomac River to Wolf Trap Light | |
| EASTERN SHORE | |
| WESTERN SHORE | |
| Region 7: Wolf Trap Light to Cape Henry | |
| EASTERN SHORE | |
| WESTERN SHORE | |
| The Atlantic Coast & The Delaware Bay & River | |
| Region 8: City Island to Sandy Hook | |
| Region 9: Sandy Hook to Cape May | |
| Region 10: Delaware Bay and River | |
| Region 11: Delmarva Peninsula | |
| Appendices | |
| 1. VHF-FM Channels | |
| 2. U.S. Coast Guard Marine Information & Coastal Weather Broadcasts | |
| 3. Useful Waypoints | |
| 4. Partial List of Charter Services on the Chesapeake | |
| 5. Bibliography | |
| Index |
REGION 1Head of Bay to Pooles Island
The extreme northern part of the Chesapeake Bay is more closely akin to a largefreshwater river than to a tidal estuary. The water in the upper Bay is onlylightly brackish, and as you proceed up most of the tributaries it becomesfresh. Crabs and oysters are relatively rare, and sea nettles seldom, if ever,penetrate. The area is scenic and thinly settled, at least in comparison withareas near Baltimore, farther south.
Like the tines of a pitchfork, the head of the Bay is split into four forks bythe Susquehanna, Northeast, Elk, and Sassafras Rivers. The Bohemia River and theChesapeake and Delaware Canal—or C&D Canal— form additional forksoff the Elk River. All offer secure and interesting harbors to the visitingyachtsman, with all the facilities needed for resupply or repairs. Farther tothe south, Pooles Island and Worton and Fairlee Creeks form a transition areawhere the water changes from the nearly fresh water of the head of the Bay tothe more brackish waters of the main part of the northern Bay.
Most of the Western Shore, between the Susquehanna River and Pooles Island, is arestricted area belonging to the Aberdeen Proving Grounds. Landing there isstrictly prohibited at all times; this includes swimming or touching the bottom,shore, or a pier. The entire restricted area is closed Monday through Fridayfrom 7:30 A.M. to 5:00 P.M., except on national holidays. Additional closedtimes are announced over broadcast and VHF-FM radios. When actual firing is inprogress on the range, patrol boats warn the unwary out of the area. When thearea is open, boats may navigate through it, fishing or crabbing is allowed, andwater-skiing is permitted up to within 200 meters (220 yards) of the shore. Forspecific information, call 410-278-2250, or listen to VHF-FM radio Channel 16 orCB Channel 12. A detailed map is also available from APG Public Affairs,Aberdeen Proving Grounds, MD 21005.
As a direct result of the above, the approximately 15 miles of Western Shoreassociated with the proving grounds is not discussed in detail here.
EASTERN SHORE
ELK RIVER
Charts: 12273, 12274
Many consider Turkey Point, at the mouth of the Elk River, to be the true "topof the Bay." Near here, the Elk, Sassafras, Susquehanna, and Northeast Riversall join forces with the Bay. The Elk River itself offers little of directinterest to the cruiser except for a few potential day stops along Elk NeckState Park. In colonial times there was a major port at the headwaters that wasburned out by the British forces during the War of 1812. Now it is silted in andpretty much forgotten, save for a mark on the charts showing Old FrenchtownWharf. The Elk River connects the C&D Canal and the Bohemia River with the restof the Bay. However, there are still quite a few harbors and points of interestworth mentioning here.
Cabin John Creek
2 1 No facilities
Charts: 12273, 12274 (39°27.83'N 075°57.57'W)
Approaches. Less than 2 miles up the Elk River from Turkey Point, Cabin JohnCreek lies on the east shore. Although a little shallow (5 feet mean low water[MLW]), this creek is a popular anchorage with shallow-draft vessels forswimming and a convenient "duck-in" shelter for some occasions. Unfortunately,you cannot proceed very far into the creek, and it is exposed to the northwest,the most common direction for a "blow." Not unexpectedly, there are no mooringsor marine facilities. A good beach on the south side of the creek lends itselfto swimming, wading, and beachcombing.
Anchorage. Except right in the mouth of the creek, there is little roomto anchor because the water shoals rather quickly as you proceed into the creek.You can anchor in at least 5 feet of water within about ¼ mile from theentrance, but watch your depth carefully as the shoaling tends to increase eachyear.
Elk Neck State Park
2 1 No facilities
Charts: 12273, 12274
Approaches. To port as you proceed up the Elk River, most of the land ispart of Elk Neck State Park. Comprising more than 1,700 acres, the park has aquite varied topography, ranging from sandy beaches to marshlands to woodlandsthat are more than 100 feet above sea level. It is a wildlife sanctuary. Thereis no "approach" as such. Just choose a likely looking spot as you proceed upthe Elk River and pull over, making sure you are well away from the commercialchannel, and monitor the depth as you approach shore. Holding is good in sandand mud, but the wind blowing up and down the river is essentially unrestricted.
Anchorages. Although anchoring off any of several beaches is possible,there is little or no protection from the elements or the wakes from boat andship traffic. There are facilities for boat launching and rental in RoguesHarbor (39°28.11'N 075°59.00'W), about 1½ miles above TurkeyPoint and directly across the Elk River from a large housing development withlook-alike white houses placed cheek by jowl. The launching facility is designedfor small powerboats or day sailers. Other trailerables with a draft well under3 feet also can make use of the facility. Trailers and cars can be parked at aseparate area just up the hill.
You can anchor off this cove, but the shallow water and lack of protection fromweather and ship wakes make it less than a desirable anchorage. For just puttinga small boat in for the day or even windsurfing, it is a good...
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